Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Monday, December 5, 2011
Saving Money with Salvaged Building Materials
Salvaged building materials allow you to improve your home inexpensively—but might require an extra investment of time and energy.
Recycled building materials are getting easier to find
According to the Building Materials Reuse Association, recycling is becoming more common in the construction industry. That means reclaimed building elements like doors, windows, plumbing fixtures, and wood flooring are increasingly easy to find.
Habitat for Humanity’s nationwide chain of ReStores sells recycled items, and many cities have architectural salvage yards. Online, neighbors advertise unwanted items on community bulletin boards, such as Craigslist, and national directories of recycled materials, such as EcoBusinessLinks, can be great sources for hard-to-find elements. And the price is right: reused pieces can be 50% to 75% cheaper than their new counterparts.
Searching for salvaged materials
Sounds terrific, right? But it’s not that simple. Using recycled building elements is like shopping at a thrift store: You can’t be certain you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for. Anyone interested in a good deal to spruce up their home—an ornate wood mantelpiece or a set of Victorian doors, for example—has to be willing to compromise on some of the details and commit some time to the endeavor.
If you live in or near a city and have access to a salvage yard, you’re in luck. Many receive multiple new shipments daily, and some, such as Seattle’s Second Use, post their offerings online.
But in most cases, there’s no substitute for regularly showing up in person to check out what’s available. If you’ve got something particular in mind, plan on spending a few afternoons at the salvage yard trying to track down what you’re looking for. The same is true if you’re exploring online: locating the right piece may take longer than you’d expected.
Before beginning your search, make sure you’ve got measurements in hand. It’s useful if you can allow for some wiggle room: unlike big home improvement stores, the items on sale are usually one-of-a-kind pieces. So while a recent truckload might have dropped off a beautiful old mantelpiece, the size might not be an exact fit; know in advance if you can manage with a slightly larger or smaller size.
Dealing with lead paint
Some old items need to be treated with serious care. Ruthie Mundell of Community Forklift, a salvage yard in Edmonston, Md., says that the staff tries to flag items that appear to be lead paint hazards–that is, anything painted prior to 1978, when the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) banned lead in paints.
Nevertheless, buyers of old painted items need to be aware of the potential hazards. Older paint doesn’t mean the pieces are unusable, but the paint must be thoroughly removed or sealed—never scraped or sanded. The CPSC offers guidelines for treating lead paint in the household.
Finding savings
Some salvaged pieces are better deals than others. The best is often flooring: careful shoppers can find used floor boards from quality old wood that’s difficult to come by these days. Sat Jiwan Ikle-Khalsa, a green living consultant in Takoma Park, Md., scoured a local salvage yard and found maple, white oak, and rare heart pine flooring at a low price for his renovated 1940s-era home. He estimates he saved more than $2,000 over the cost of new flooring.
Other useful finds are doors, particularly those already on a frame, and plumbing elements. Antique light fixtures can be a great bargain, but check whether they’ve been recently rewired before you buy; otherwise, you may have to do it yourself, or pay an electrician for the service.
Windows are common, but many older widows are single-pane and not energy efficient. These are better used for interior walls to add light and air flow between rooms. Stained glass panels are relatively common at salvage yards and cost from $50 to $500.
Sample price comparisons for various salvaged materials
Salvaged oak flooring: $1 to $3 per sq. ft.
New oak flooring: $4 to $10 per sq. ft.
Average savings for 12×16-foot room: $960
Salvaged interior solid panel door (basic): $20 to $50
New interior panel door: $100 to $200
Average savings: $115
Secondhand pedestal sink: $20 to $250
New pedestal sink: $100 to $800
Average savings: $315
Recycled crown molding: $.30 to $1 per lineal ft.
New crown molding: $.90 to $3 per lineal ft.
Average savings for 12×16-foot room: $72.80
Don’t forget to add in transportation costs. Not all salvage yards deliver, and those that do aren’t necessarily cheap: the cost of getting materials across town could be $100 or more. It might make more sense to borrow or rent a truck on your own.
The value of salvage building components
Salvaged elements may not add to a home’s appraised value, according to Chicago appraiser Tim McCarthy, president of T.J. McCarthy and Associates. An appraiser probably won’t include a home’s reclaimed heart pine beams in the kitchen or the bathroom’s antique plumbing fixtures when calculating the house’s value.
But that doesn’t mean the seller can’t use those amenities as selling points and boost the asking price accordingly. “It’s very market-specific,” McCarthy says. In higher-end neighborhoods, homebuyers may be willing to pay more for authentic elements that give a house personality.
McCarthy recommends talking with a local realtor before making changes; they’ll have a good sense of the housing market’s current demands and should be able to tell you whether a vintage element will boost your home’s market value.
Working with salvage
To effectively integrate salvaged items, Arne Mortensen, owner of Mortensen Design/Build in Seattle, recommends choosing a contractor who has a particular interest and experience in working with recycled building materials. Salvage yard staffs may be able to recommend someone; other sources for ‘green’ contractors include online sites like Angie’s List.
Nonetheless, the time-consuming legwork of finding good pieces generally falls to the homeowner. To make the process easier, spend time thinking about and researching online what you want before you begin to shop. And be prepared to be persistent; happy hunting takes patience.
Recycled building materials are getting easier to find
According to the Building Materials Reuse Association, recycling is becoming more common in the construction industry. That means reclaimed building elements like doors, windows, plumbing fixtures, and wood flooring are increasingly easy to find.
Habitat for Humanity’s nationwide chain of ReStores sells recycled items, and many cities have architectural salvage yards. Online, neighbors advertise unwanted items on community bulletin boards, such as Craigslist, and national directories of recycled materials, such as EcoBusinessLinks, can be great sources for hard-to-find elements. And the price is right: reused pieces can be 50% to 75% cheaper than their new counterparts.
Searching for salvaged materials
Sounds terrific, right? But it’s not that simple. Using recycled building elements is like shopping at a thrift store: You can’t be certain you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for. Anyone interested in a good deal to spruce up their home—an ornate wood mantelpiece or a set of Victorian doors, for example—has to be willing to compromise on some of the details and commit some time to the endeavor.
If you live in or near a city and have access to a salvage yard, you’re in luck. Many receive multiple new shipments daily, and some, such as Seattle’s Second Use, post their offerings online.
But in most cases, there’s no substitute for regularly showing up in person to check out what’s available. If you’ve got something particular in mind, plan on spending a few afternoons at the salvage yard trying to track down what you’re looking for. The same is true if you’re exploring online: locating the right piece may take longer than you’d expected.
Before beginning your search, make sure you’ve got measurements in hand. It’s useful if you can allow for some wiggle room: unlike big home improvement stores, the items on sale are usually one-of-a-kind pieces. So while a recent truckload might have dropped off a beautiful old mantelpiece, the size might not be an exact fit; know in advance if you can manage with a slightly larger or smaller size.
Dealing with lead paint
Some old items need to be treated with serious care. Ruthie Mundell of Community Forklift, a salvage yard in Edmonston, Md., says that the staff tries to flag items that appear to be lead paint hazards–that is, anything painted prior to 1978, when the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) banned lead in paints.
Nevertheless, buyers of old painted items need to be aware of the potential hazards. Older paint doesn’t mean the pieces are unusable, but the paint must be thoroughly removed or sealed—never scraped or sanded. The CPSC offers guidelines for treating lead paint in the household.
Finding savings
Some salvaged pieces are better deals than others. The best is often flooring: careful shoppers can find used floor boards from quality old wood that’s difficult to come by these days. Sat Jiwan Ikle-Khalsa, a green living consultant in Takoma Park, Md., scoured a local salvage yard and found maple, white oak, and rare heart pine flooring at a low price for his renovated 1940s-era home. He estimates he saved more than $2,000 over the cost of new flooring.
Other useful finds are doors, particularly those already on a frame, and plumbing elements. Antique light fixtures can be a great bargain, but check whether they’ve been recently rewired before you buy; otherwise, you may have to do it yourself, or pay an electrician for the service.
Windows are common, but many older widows are single-pane and not energy efficient. These are better used for interior walls to add light and air flow between rooms. Stained glass panels are relatively common at salvage yards and cost from $50 to $500.
Sample price comparisons for various salvaged materials
Salvaged oak flooring: $1 to $3 per sq. ft.
New oak flooring: $4 to $10 per sq. ft.
Average savings for 12×16-foot room: $960
Salvaged interior solid panel door (basic): $20 to $50
New interior panel door: $100 to $200
Average savings: $115
Secondhand pedestal sink: $20 to $250
New pedestal sink: $100 to $800
Average savings: $315
Recycled crown molding: $.30 to $1 per lineal ft.
New crown molding: $.90 to $3 per lineal ft.
Average savings for 12×16-foot room: $72.80
Don’t forget to add in transportation costs. Not all salvage yards deliver, and those that do aren’t necessarily cheap: the cost of getting materials across town could be $100 or more. It might make more sense to borrow or rent a truck on your own.
The value of salvage building components
Salvaged elements may not add to a home’s appraised value, according to Chicago appraiser Tim McCarthy, president of T.J. McCarthy and Associates. An appraiser probably won’t include a home’s reclaimed heart pine beams in the kitchen or the bathroom’s antique plumbing fixtures when calculating the house’s value.
But that doesn’t mean the seller can’t use those amenities as selling points and boost the asking price accordingly. “It’s very market-specific,” McCarthy says. In higher-end neighborhoods, homebuyers may be willing to pay more for authentic elements that give a house personality.
McCarthy recommends talking with a local realtor before making changes; they’ll have a good sense of the housing market’s current demands and should be able to tell you whether a vintage element will boost your home’s market value.
Working with salvage
To effectively integrate salvaged items, Arne Mortensen, owner of Mortensen Design/Build in Seattle, recommends choosing a contractor who has a particular interest and experience in working with recycled building materials. Salvage yard staffs may be able to recommend someone; other sources for ‘green’ contractors include online sites like Angie’s List.
Nonetheless, the time-consuming legwork of finding good pieces generally falls to the homeowner. To make the process easier, spend time thinking about and researching online what you want before you begin to shop. And be prepared to be persistent; happy hunting takes patience.
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Inspector General bashes TARP Program
By Steve Beede,
Through the 2009 Troubled Asset Relief Program (”TARP”), the American taxpayers invested hundreds of billions of dollars in hundreds of financial institutions, the auto industry, and certain markets for asset-backed securities. To oversee this, Congress established a Special Inspector General as a watchdog to protect those investments and report on their performance. In practice, this has meant prosecuting those financial institutions that commit crimes involving TARP funds and to make recommendations to the Department of Treasury.
For real estate owners, the TARP monies fund the HAMP loan modification program, HAFA short sale/Deed in Lieu program, and the HARP refinance Progam, plus many other programs. On October 27, 2011, the Special Investigator released a 306 page Quarterly Report to Congress which unveiled several important facts affecting the real estate industry:
1) Only $2.5 billion - or 5.4% 0 of the $45.6 billion in TARP funds earmarked for housing support programs has been spent. Calling the lender participation in the HAMP program “disappointing”, the Report indicates that as many as 600,000 eligible homeowners will be left out. For those who have been struggling with getting lenders to respond to their HAMP applications, this Report suggests that the problem was in part a lack of willingness of the government to push the lenders to act. The Inspector General made four recommendations to Treasury to improve servicer performance which could keep more people in their homes. Treasury has refused to act on any of the recommendations. As stated in the Report, “Treasury is giving up a chance at meaningful change and sadly, it is struggling homeowners who have the most to lose”.
2) The lenders who received the TARP bailout money are required to particpate in these housing programs. Given the huge number of homeowner complaints the Investigator has received, the Special Investigator urged Treasury to set benchmarks for servicer performance and to impose fines and withhold payments to violators. However, Treasury is leaving it up to the lenders to voluntarily comply and refuses to compel the lenders to do so. As the Report points out, “Compliance with program guidelines is not, and must not, be voluntary”.
3) As of September 1, 2011, the 20 largest loan servicers (including BofA, Chase, Wells Fargo, and Ocwen) are required to designate a Single Point of Contact. The single point of contact, referred to as the “relationship manager,” will have the sole primary responsibility for communicating with the borrower (or the borrower’s authorized advisor) about options to avoid foreclosure, his/her status in the process, coordination of receipt of documents, and coordination with other servicer personnel to promote compliance with timelines and requirements. This single relationship manager will be responsible for managing the borrower relationship throughout the entire delinquency or imminent default resolution process, and if the loan is subsequently referred to foreclosure, must be available to respond to borrower inquiries regarding the status of the foreclosure. The relationship manager’s proactive responsibilities end when a homeowner completes a loan modification or when all loss mitigation actions have been exhausted.
4) Many homeowners are denied a HAMP modification because they fail the “Net Present Value” (NPV) test. The NPV test is used to enable investors to determine whether they would recover a better value from modifying the loan or from foreclosing. This has caused great confusion and questioning as to what data was used for the test. Now homeowners can run this test themselves online at www.CheckMyNVP.com. This can be used to check data after an NVP denial or even before applying for HAMP.
There is a lot more information within the pages of the Report which I’ll be sharing in subsequent postings. In the meantime, if you have been wrongly denied a loan modification or other relief allowed under the TARP program, contact your Representative or Senator and demand that they take action to compel lenders to comply with TARP requirements. Otherwise, at least 600,000 more homeowners are likely to lose their homes.
If you are a California property owner, consider our $200 Attorney Consult program that will help you determine all of your options and choose the best strategy to enable you to move forward as intact as possible. To learn more, contact me at sjbeede@bpelaw.com or call us at 916 966-2260.
The information presented in this Article is not to be taken as legal advice. Every persons situation is different. If you are upside-down on your loan(s), especially if you’re facing a lender lawsuit, get competent legal advice in your State immediately so that you can determine your best options.
Through the 2009 Troubled Asset Relief Program (”TARP”), the American taxpayers invested hundreds of billions of dollars in hundreds of financial institutions, the auto industry, and certain markets for asset-backed securities. To oversee this, Congress established a Special Inspector General as a watchdog to protect those investments and report on their performance. In practice, this has meant prosecuting those financial institutions that commit crimes involving TARP funds and to make recommendations to the Department of Treasury.
For real estate owners, the TARP monies fund the HAMP loan modification program, HAFA short sale/Deed in Lieu program, and the HARP refinance Progam, plus many other programs. On October 27, 2011, the Special Investigator released a 306 page Quarterly Report to Congress which unveiled several important facts affecting the real estate industry:
1) Only $2.5 billion - or 5.4% 0 of the $45.6 billion in TARP funds earmarked for housing support programs has been spent. Calling the lender participation in the HAMP program “disappointing”, the Report indicates that as many as 600,000 eligible homeowners will be left out. For those who have been struggling with getting lenders to respond to their HAMP applications, this Report suggests that the problem was in part a lack of willingness of the government to push the lenders to act. The Inspector General made four recommendations to Treasury to improve servicer performance which could keep more people in their homes. Treasury has refused to act on any of the recommendations. As stated in the Report, “Treasury is giving up a chance at meaningful change and sadly, it is struggling homeowners who have the most to lose”.
2) The lenders who received the TARP bailout money are required to particpate in these housing programs. Given the huge number of homeowner complaints the Investigator has received, the Special Investigator urged Treasury to set benchmarks for servicer performance and to impose fines and withhold payments to violators. However, Treasury is leaving it up to the lenders to voluntarily comply and refuses to compel the lenders to do so. As the Report points out, “Compliance with program guidelines is not, and must not, be voluntary”.
3) As of September 1, 2011, the 20 largest loan servicers (including BofA, Chase, Wells Fargo, and Ocwen) are required to designate a Single Point of Contact. The single point of contact, referred to as the “relationship manager,” will have the sole primary responsibility for communicating with the borrower (or the borrower’s authorized advisor) about options to avoid foreclosure, his/her status in the process, coordination of receipt of documents, and coordination with other servicer personnel to promote compliance with timelines and requirements. This single relationship manager will be responsible for managing the borrower relationship throughout the entire delinquency or imminent default resolution process, and if the loan is subsequently referred to foreclosure, must be available to respond to borrower inquiries regarding the status of the foreclosure. The relationship manager’s proactive responsibilities end when a homeowner completes a loan modification or when all loss mitigation actions have been exhausted.
4) Many homeowners are denied a HAMP modification because they fail the “Net Present Value” (NPV) test. The NPV test is used to enable investors to determine whether they would recover a better value from modifying the loan or from foreclosing. This has caused great confusion and questioning as to what data was used for the test. Now homeowners can run this test themselves online at www.CheckMyNVP.com. This can be used to check data after an NVP denial or even before applying for HAMP.
There is a lot more information within the pages of the Report which I’ll be sharing in subsequent postings. In the meantime, if you have been wrongly denied a loan modification or other relief allowed under the TARP program, contact your Representative or Senator and demand that they take action to compel lenders to comply with TARP requirements. Otherwise, at least 600,000 more homeowners are likely to lose their homes.
If you are a California property owner, consider our $200 Attorney Consult program that will help you determine all of your options and choose the best strategy to enable you to move forward as intact as possible. To learn more, contact me at sjbeede@bpelaw.com or call us at 916 966-2260.
The information presented in this Article is not to be taken as legal advice. Every persons situation is different. If you are upside-down on your loan(s), especially if you’re facing a lender lawsuit, get competent legal advice in your State immediately so that you can determine your best options.
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Monday, October 31, 2011
WHAT’S ALL THE HYPE ABOUT HARP ?
We have had questions on what HARP is (since the enhancements were just announced), so here you go:
On Monday, October 24th, 2011, The Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA) announced their enhancements to the Home Affordable Refinance Program (HARP). The HARP program came about during the credit crisis to help borrowers refinance who may be “under water” on their homes.
What's Really New?
First, it's important to realize that the president's proposal is not a new program, but a revision to the current Home Affordable Refinance Program (HARP). However there are some big changes that you can let people know if they ask you.
Refinance…No Matter How Underwater
Now homeowners can refinance no matter how underwater they are! Before homeowners could only refinance if they were 25% or less underwater, and even then many banks only let people who were 5% or less underwater refinance.
No Appraisal Necessary?
With the program's revision, it's possible that an appraisal won't have to be performed. That's great news because it can help people save time and money. But this is only the case if Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac can electronically estimate the value through their valuation models.
But Keep in Mind…
These updates to HARP apply only to people whose mortgage is currently secured by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac...and whose loan was securitized by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac prior to May 31, 2009. So the chances are that people who have refinanced since May 2009 will not qualify to refinance under the HARP revision.
What's Next?
As of now, the revisions to HARP have been proposed by President Obama and the Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA), which regulates Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. This directive has been given to Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, and they now have until November 15, 2011 to give guidance and details regarding how these changes will be run.
Check out these websites to see if a loan is owned by Fannie or Freddie http://www.fanniemae.com/loanlookup/ or http://www.freddiemac.com/corporate/.
Link to the FHFA press release:
http://www.fhfa.gov/webfiles/22721/HARP_release_102411_Final.pdf .
On Monday, October 24th, 2011, The Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA) announced their enhancements to the Home Affordable Refinance Program (HARP). The HARP program came about during the credit crisis to help borrowers refinance who may be “under water” on their homes.
What's Really New?
First, it's important to realize that the president's proposal is not a new program, but a revision to the current Home Affordable Refinance Program (HARP). However there are some big changes that you can let people know if they ask you.
Refinance…No Matter How Underwater
Now homeowners can refinance no matter how underwater they are! Before homeowners could only refinance if they were 25% or less underwater, and even then many banks only let people who were 5% or less underwater refinance.
No Appraisal Necessary?
With the program's revision, it's possible that an appraisal won't have to be performed. That's great news because it can help people save time and money. But this is only the case if Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac can electronically estimate the value through their valuation models.
But Keep in Mind…
These updates to HARP apply only to people whose mortgage is currently secured by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac...and whose loan was securitized by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac prior to May 31, 2009. So the chances are that people who have refinanced since May 2009 will not qualify to refinance under the HARP revision.
What's Next?
As of now, the revisions to HARP have been proposed by President Obama and the Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA), which regulates Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. This directive has been given to Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, and they now have until November 15, 2011 to give guidance and details regarding how these changes will be run.
Check out these websites to see if a loan is owned by Fannie or Freddie http://www.fanniemae.com/loanlookup/ or http://www.freddiemac.com/corporate/.
Link to the FHFA press release:
http://www.fhfa.gov/webfiles/22721/HARP_release_102411_Final.pdf .
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Q&A: Short Sale Sometimes Comes with Cash Incentive
Posted By susanne On October 16, 2011 @ 1:02 pm In Today’s Home Spun Wisdom
Question: I heard that some banks give homeowners money in a short sale to help them move out of the property. Is this true?
Answer: It sounds too good to be true, but it’s legit. The Sun Sentinel wrote about this in June. Many lenders will offer homeowners a few thousand dollars to leave the home in good shape following a foreclosure, but some lucky borrowers get up to $20,000 for completing short sales.
Some lenders offer financial assistance, either through internal initiatives or the government’s Home Affordable Foreclosure Alternative program. Chase and Wells Fargo were two lenders mentioned in the Sun Sentinel story, but they were intentionally vague about who qualifies for the money and why. My experience tells me that eligibility for these programs is rare, but it never hurts to try.
In some cases, you must contact your lender and ask for the money before you have a buyer in place. This is quite different from how a normal short sale works in which it’s a waste of time to contact your bank before you have a bona fide contract to sell the property. Typical incentives given by the bank are relocation assistance from $3,000 to $20,000 and a waiver of the deficiency between what your home is worth and what you owe your lender.
These programs are limited in scope, often limited by the location of the property and by who owns the loan. For example, properties in Florida are generally eligible, but loans insured by government entities—such as the Department of Housing and Urban Development, the Federal Housing Administration or the Department of Veterans Affairs—often are ineligible. If your loan is not eligible, it may very well still be approved in a “traditional” short sale.
Check Scams: Be aware of two check scams that have popped up recently.
One such scam involves a potential tenant who gives the landlord a cashier’s check or some other official check, often from a Canadian bank, as a deposit for a lease, with plans to work out the details later. There is some small dispute and the landlord and tenant can’t come to terms on the lease, and the tenant asks for the money back. The landlord tells the scammer that the cashier’s check was deposited, and the tenant agrees to take a personal check from the landlord. Often the scammer will even take less than the whole amount deposited “for the landlord’s trouble.” It’s only a few days later, when the cashier’s check bounces, that the landlord finds out the check was counterfeit, and the landlord is out the money. Be sure to call the issuing bank to verify a check before you deposit it.
Another common scam happens when the victim gives a personal check to the scammer for some service or product. A few minutes or hours later, the scammer comes back to the victim and says he had problems cashing the check. The scammer then asks the victim to take back the check and pay cash instead.
Again, the scammer may even offer a discount for the “trouble.” Several days later, the victim finds out that the scammer deposited the check with one of the smartphone camera apps allowing remote deposit and the victim is out both the check and the cash. Of course, the account is now closed and the scammer is long gone. The moral of the story: Once a check is out of your sight for even a second, do not take it back.
©2011 the Sun Sentinel (Fort Lauderdale, Fla.)
Friday, October 7, 2011
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Monday, September 19, 2011
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Why Your Green Home Improvements Aren't Paying Off
If you made green home improvements over the last few years with high hopes for lower energy bills and a quick recoup of your initial investment, you got an awakening: Your monthly bottom line likely held steady—or, worse, went up.
Before you shun green, recalibrate your thinking from expecting fat returns to understanding the new bottom line: Smart retrofits help you hold your ground against rising energy costs.
Why have my green home improvements fallen flat?
Energy prices as a whole have gone up over the last decade, especially in certain regions of the country.
Although natural gas prices have dipped a bit since 2008 and electricity prices have stayed level, the trend line goes up for both from 2011 forward.
The U.S. Energy Information Administration estimates an average annual increase in residential energy costs of 2.3% through 2035.
So…if energy cost projections hold, and assuming an average annual American energy bill of $2,200, you’ll pay 2.3% more each year (that’s $50 the first year) if you do nothing to reduce your consumption. Your bill will inch closer to $4,000 by the year 2035. Ouch.
3 energy saving retrofits that pay off
If the only reason you’re making retrofits is to manage energy costs, look for projects with maximum bang for the buck.
Rule of thumb: Try to beat the 2.3% annual average with green home improvements that reduce your energy consumption by 5% or more but have a modest initial investment. And don’t forget to ask whether your utility or state government offers rebates or tax credits for these improvements.
1. Seal and insulate ductwork that runs through unheated spaces—the attic, a crawl space, a garage. It’s not glamorous, but it can improve the efficiency of your heating system by 20%—a 5% bill reduction overall. If you hire an HVAC pro for this job, you’ll invest a few hundred dollars for labor and materials.
2. Buy a programmable thermostat. Is it possible you haven’t done this yet? For just $25 to $250, the you can save, on average, around 8% on energy bills simply by programming it properly.
3. Add attic insulation and seal air leaks. One of the best energy-saving improvements out there, because insulating and sealing your home can reduce your energy bills by 10%. Upgrading your attic insulation to the R-value recommended for your region costs anywhere from $.25 to $1 per square foot, including materials and labor; it’s less if you do it yourself.
But you won’t get the maximum savings if you don’t seal air leaks, so plan this as a combo job. Caulking and weather-stripping typically costs from $50 to $350, depending on the size of your house.
Karin Beuerlein in more than a decade of freelancing, has covered home improvement and green living topics extensively for HGTV.com, FineLiving.com, and FrontDoor.com. She and her husband started married life by remodeling the house they were living in. They still have both the marriage and the house, no small feat.
Friday, July 29, 2011
Monday, July 25, 2011
Welcome to the most current Housing Trends eNewsletter.
JULY - 2011 Newsletter Housing Trends eNewsletter
Welcome to the most current Housing Trends eNewsletter. This eNewsletter is specially designed for you, with national and local housing information that you may find useful whether you’re in the market for a home, thinking about selling your home, or just interested in homeowner issues in general.
The Housing Trends eNewsletter contains the latest information from the National Association of REALTORS®, the U.S. Census Bureau and Realtor.org reports, videos, key market indicators and real estate sales statistics, a video message by a nationally recognized economist, maps, mortgage rates and calculators, consumer articles, plus local neighborhood information and more.
Please click here to view the JULY - 2011 Newsletter Housing Trends eNewsletter.
If you are interested in determining the value of your home, click the Home Evaluator link for a free evaluation report.
Monday, July 18, 2011
The Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Prevention Act
As of July 1, 2011, all single family homes with a attached garage or a fossil fuel source will be required to install carbon monoxide alarms.
See attachment for frequently asked questions on the devices.
See attachment for frequently asked questions on the devices.
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Roseville & Rocklin Ca Homes For Sale Including Nearby Cities
Click on House Image to View Homes
View Roseville & Rocklin Ca Homes For Sale Including Nearby Cities in a larger map
View Roseville & Rocklin Ca Homes For Sale Including Nearby Cities in a larger map
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Monday, June 27, 2011
Friday, June 24, 2011
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Solving Your Mortgage Crisis Just Got Easier
5 Steps for a Successful Short Sale
Lenders and the federal government, prompted by the sheer volume of loan modification and short sale requests, have overhauled their systems and programs, making the foreclosure avoidance process much easier than in the past.
If you are considering short selling your home to avoid the financial and emotional fallout of foreclosure, you should be aware of the five steps you should take to increase your chances of a successful transaction.
First, do you qualify?
You must:
1. Have a verifiable hardship, like unemployment, medical bills, or relocation
2. Must have a monthly income shortfall
3. Be insolvent (you have no cash or assets that can be sold to pay down the mortgage), or headed towards insolvency
If you meet these qualifications, follow these five steps to a successful short sale:
1. Contact me so we can identify your servicer, fill out a short sale packet for the lender, and assemble all the required information needed to list your home for sale
2. Gather financial information (i.e., bank statements, pay stubs) from at least the last three months
3. Keep your house in showcase condition for showings, and make as many repairs as necessary and that you can afford
4. Expect the lender, junior lien holders, and private insurance companies to request more paperwork, and try to gather requested information quickly to ensure transaction efficiency
5. Set realistic expectations and work with me, the lender, and the buyer to the satisfaction and benefit of all parties involved
For more information about how the short sale process works, or about any other foreclosure alternatives you may qualify for, call me today. I can help you alleviate the burden that the threat of foreclosure brings, and we can develop a strategy to help you breathe a little easier.
IMPORTANT GOVERNMENT DISCLOSURE: You may stop doing business with us at any time. You may accept or reject the offer of mortgage assistance we obtain from your lender (or servicer). If you reject the offer, you will not have to pay us for our services. The above brokerage is not associated with the government, and our service is not approved by the government or your lender. Even if you accept this offer and use our service, your lender may not agree to change your loan.
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
6 tips for a higher credit score
By Jack Guttentag
Inman News™
Your credit score, calculated from information in your credit report, is a measure of how good a risk you are to a credit grantor. A large proportion of borrowers who can’t qualify for a mortgage would qualify if their credit score was higher.
The theme of this set of articles, that many borrowers can repair their own qualification credentials, applies as much or more to credit score than to down payment or income.
Any lender to whom you apply will obtain your score and provide it to you. As noted below, however, inquiries by lenders may have a negative effect on your score, whereas inquiries by you do not. Hence, it is a good idea to find your score before you apply, so you can make an informed decision on whether you want to apply at that time.
You can obtain your score from many firms in the business, including www.equifax.com, www.transunion.com, www.experian.com and www.myfico.com.
At some point, I expect to have a program on my website that indicates how particular applicants can improve their credit score using data from their credit reports. The suggestions below, however, are necessarily general in nature.
Pay on time: The core rule is to meet your debt obligations on-time, every time. If you have had payment lapses in the past but your habits have improved, time is on your side. The credit scoring rules weight recent experience more heavily than older experience.
Correct mistakes in your credit report: Your score should not be reduced by reporting mistakes, which are all too common. I have an article on my website on How to Correct Mistakes in Your Credit Report.
Detach yourself from the “wrong vendors”: Because finance companies lend to relatively poor risks, the credit score of any borrower owing money to a finance company is lower than it would be if the creditor was a bank. By the same logic, borrowers who have credit cards of department stores are penalized, relative to what their score would be if they had cards issued by banks.
Reduce balances on revolving credits to less than 50 percent of the maximums: A high utilization ratio is read as a sign of weakness and potential trouble, reducing your score. Credit cards are the most important type of revolving credits, but HELOCs belong in this category as well. A HELOC used to purchase a house or to refinance a mortgage, where the initial utilization ratio is 100 percent, will jolt your credit score.
Note that utilization ratios can be reduced by getting the maximums raised, as well as by paying down the balances. In many cases, credit card issuers are willing to raise the maximum at the borrower’s request.
Minimize the number of “hard inquiries”: Hard inquiries are requests to a credit agency for your credit score from a credit grantor, insurance company or other entity to which you have applied and to which you have entrusted your Social Security number. “Soft inquiries” made by you or by firms looking to sell you something for which you have not applied don’t require your permission and don’t impact your credit score.
The credit-scoring systems may or may not penalize borrowers who shop multiple credit grantors within a short period — unfortunately, you can’t be sure.
The credit agencies tell you that multiple inquiries within a 15-day period count only as a single inquiry, but in fact inquiries for mortgage, auto and student loans would probably count as three inquiries, and even three mortgage inquiries could count as three inquiries, depending on how the credit grantors are identified to the credit scorer. I will have an article abut this in the near future.
The bottom line is that in applying for credit, find your own score that you can deliver to the vendors you are shopping who need the score to set the price. The vendor you select will verify the score through his own inquiry, but it will be only a single inquiry.
Pay off collection accounts: This may actually reduce your score in the short-run by converting the account from an older entry with a low weight to a new one with a higher weight. However, you can’t get a loan with a collection account on your record, so you must pay it off — the sooner the better.
The writer is professor of finance emeritus at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania.
Inman News™
Your credit score, calculated from information in your credit report, is a measure of how good a risk you are to a credit grantor. A large proportion of borrowers who can’t qualify for a mortgage would qualify if their credit score was higher.
The theme of this set of articles, that many borrowers can repair their own qualification credentials, applies as much or more to credit score than to down payment or income.
Any lender to whom you apply will obtain your score and provide it to you. As noted below, however, inquiries by lenders may have a negative effect on your score, whereas inquiries by you do not. Hence, it is a good idea to find your score before you apply, so you can make an informed decision on whether you want to apply at that time.
You can obtain your score from many firms in the business, including www.equifax.com, www.transunion.com, www.experian.com and www.myfico.com.
At some point, I expect to have a program on my website that indicates how particular applicants can improve their credit score using data from their credit reports. The suggestions below, however, are necessarily general in nature.
Pay on time: The core rule is to meet your debt obligations on-time, every time. If you have had payment lapses in the past but your habits have improved, time is on your side. The credit scoring rules weight recent experience more heavily than older experience.
Correct mistakes in your credit report: Your score should not be reduced by reporting mistakes, which are all too common. I have an article on my website on How to Correct Mistakes in Your Credit Report.
Detach yourself from the “wrong vendors”: Because finance companies lend to relatively poor risks, the credit score of any borrower owing money to a finance company is lower than it would be if the creditor was a bank. By the same logic, borrowers who have credit cards of department stores are penalized, relative to what their score would be if they had cards issued by banks.
Reduce balances on revolving credits to less than 50 percent of the maximums: A high utilization ratio is read as a sign of weakness and potential trouble, reducing your score. Credit cards are the most important type of revolving credits, but HELOCs belong in this category as well. A HELOC used to purchase a house or to refinance a mortgage, where the initial utilization ratio is 100 percent, will jolt your credit score.
Note that utilization ratios can be reduced by getting the maximums raised, as well as by paying down the balances. In many cases, credit card issuers are willing to raise the maximum at the borrower’s request.
Minimize the number of “hard inquiries”: Hard inquiries are requests to a credit agency for your credit score from a credit grantor, insurance company or other entity to which you have applied and to which you have entrusted your Social Security number. “Soft inquiries” made by you or by firms looking to sell you something for which you have not applied don’t require your permission and don’t impact your credit score.
The credit-scoring systems may or may not penalize borrowers who shop multiple credit grantors within a short period — unfortunately, you can’t be sure.
The credit agencies tell you that multiple inquiries within a 15-day period count only as a single inquiry, but in fact inquiries for mortgage, auto and student loans would probably count as three inquiries, and even three mortgage inquiries could count as three inquiries, depending on how the credit grantors are identified to the credit scorer. I will have an article abut this in the near future.
The bottom line is that in applying for credit, find your own score that you can deliver to the vendors you are shopping who need the score to set the price. The vendor you select will verify the score through his own inquiry, but it will be only a single inquiry.
Pay off collection accounts: This may actually reduce your score in the short-run by converting the account from an older entry with a low weight to a new one with a higher weight. However, you can’t get a loan with a collection account on your record, so you must pay it off — the sooner the better.
The writer is professor of finance emeritus at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Monday, May 23, 2011
LAWSUITS TO STOP FORECLOSURE FIND LITTLE SUCCESS
By Steve Beede
Upside-down borrowers, frustrated with a lack of lender willingness to modify their loans and desperate to keep their homes, often turn to lawyers who promise to stop foreclosures and force lenders to modify loans. But all too often what appears to be a meritorious Complaint gets quickly thrown out by the Courts and the borrower ends up still losing their home… plus thousands of dollars in legal fees.
Significantly, in these cases the borrower typically requests and is granted a Temporary Restraining Order (TRO) to stop the pending foreclosure sale. It appears as a quick victory. But a TRO is just a short-term stoppage for approx. two weeks at which point the borrower must convince the court to grant a Preliminary Injunction stopping foreclosure for the entire time it takes to get the case to trial which could be two years or more. Here is where the lenders are winning the war.
The following analyzes several of the legal arguments raised against the lenders and what has happened in the Courts. The cases cited all originated in California state courts but were decided in the Federal courts. The decisions appear consistent with what is happening in other states.
1. I MADE ALL THE TRIAL MODIFICATION PAYMENTS AND GAVE THEM ALL THE DOCUMENTS THEY ASKED FOR. THE COURT SHOULD COMPEL THEM TO MODIFY MY LOAN – This argument is often raised as part of a lawsuit to stop a foreclosure from occurring. The underlying arguments are: 1) the lender did not handle my HAMP modification application properly (Negligence claim); or 2) I met the lender’s or HAMP’s loan mod requirements but the lender denied the modification anyway (Beach of Contract claim) ; or 3) the lender never intended to give me the modification, they just wanted to get my Trial Mod payments (Fraud claim). Most loan modifications on homes are being done under the government’s Home Affordable Modification Program (HAMP). Where a borrower doesn’t fit HAMP’s guidelines, many lenders have their own “proprietary” modification programs. The legal question is whether a borrower can force the lender to modify if they fit within the guidelines. The courts routinely are saying: “No”. In January, 2011, in the case of Phipps v Wells Fargo Bank, the Federal Court ruled that a Borrower has no right to sue a lender to force a HAMP modification. Even before this, in the 2009 case of Pantoja v Countrywide Home Loans, the Federal Court ruled that California laws do not impose a duty to modify a mortgagor’s loan.
2. THE LENDER PROMISED ME THEY WOULD EXTEND THE FORECLOSURE SO I COULD COMPLETE MY MODIFICATION BUT THEY THEN FORECLOSED ANYWAY. THE COURT SHOULD UNWIND THE SALE AND GET MY HOME BACK – Again the courts are routinely saying: “No”. In the 2010 case of Mehta v Wells Fargo Bank (Fed Ct decison 3/29/2011), the Court ruled: a gratuitous oral promise to postpone a sale is ordinarily unenforceable. Typically the loan agreements require that any modification be in writing and signed by all. Alternatively, the borrower must have proviuded the lender with some “consideration” to which the lender is not otherwise entitled. Merely submitting modification application documents is not consideration nor is it enough to have continued making Trial Mod payments. Without a written agreement with the lender extending the sale, the foreclosure will not be rescinded.
3. IF THE LENDER CANNOT PRODUCE THE ORIGINAL PROMISSORY NOTE, THE COURT SHOULD BAR THEM FROM FORECLOSING – This “standing” argument has received extensive publicity natonwide, especially concerning the rights of MERS to foreclose. Although early rulings tended to vary, Courts are more generally ruling in favor of the foreclosing lenders. As stated in Pantoja v Countrywide Home Loans, under California law there is no requirement to produce the original note prior to completing a non-judicial foreclosure (Trustee’s Sale). A different result could possibly arise in a Judicial Foreclosure although that process is extremely rare in a home foreclosure. Similarly, the courts agree that MERS has a right to foreclose when MERS is named in the Deed of Trust (which is most often the case).
4. I WOULD HAVE PAID BUT THE FORECLOSURE NOTICE WAS DEFECTIVE – California has a “Tender Rule” which requires the borrower to allege and to prove not that they “concievably” could have paid, but it was “plausible” that they would have paid. Simply put, actual proof of real capacity to pay is needed. Court rulings are consistent: If you couldn’t pay anyway, a defective notice was not the cause of the foreclosure.
The bottom-line in all of this is to be wary in believing that just because the lender may have mishandled your loan modification, a court will help you out. At a basic level, a loan is a contract between the lender and borrower in which the lender gives the borrower money in exchange for the borrower promising to repay the loan on the terms in the written agreement. Courts will generally not interfere in the contractual agreements of parties unless one of the parties breaches the agreements or does some other illegal action.
Obviously the above analysis just touches the surface of where the law is today. Hundreds and perhaps thousands of cases are moving through the courts as borrowers seek to keep their homes. In some cases, different courts will reach different rulings from those stated in this Article. However, it does appear that these decisions are likely to be widely followed. In fact, just yesterday a Sacramento Superior Court judge denied a Preliminary Injunction after having granted a TRO and allowed the foreclosure to continue. The judge’s legal reasoning cited all of the cases identified above and more.
The information presented in this Article is not to be taken as legal advice. Every person’s situation is different. If you are upside-down on your loan(s), especially if you’re facing a lender lawsuit, or if you are considering suing your lender, get competent legal advice in your State immediately so that you can determine your best options.
If you have specific questions about your upside down loans or real estate, feel free to contact me at kbrazil@earthlink.net. Steve offers a $200 flat fee attorney consultation to review your situation and help you evaluate and choose the best opportunities. This can be done in person or by phone. If interested, please call me at 916-791-9073 and I can give you Steve’s contact information.
Upside-down borrowers, frustrated with a lack of lender willingness to modify their loans and desperate to keep their homes, often turn to lawyers who promise to stop foreclosures and force lenders to modify loans. But all too often what appears to be a meritorious Complaint gets quickly thrown out by the Courts and the borrower ends up still losing their home… plus thousands of dollars in legal fees.
Significantly, in these cases the borrower typically requests and is granted a Temporary Restraining Order (TRO) to stop the pending foreclosure sale. It appears as a quick victory. But a TRO is just a short-term stoppage for approx. two weeks at which point the borrower must convince the court to grant a Preliminary Injunction stopping foreclosure for the entire time it takes to get the case to trial which could be two years or more. Here is where the lenders are winning the war.
The following analyzes several of the legal arguments raised against the lenders and what has happened in the Courts. The cases cited all originated in California state courts but were decided in the Federal courts. The decisions appear consistent with what is happening in other states.
1. I MADE ALL THE TRIAL MODIFICATION PAYMENTS AND GAVE THEM ALL THE DOCUMENTS THEY ASKED FOR. THE COURT SHOULD COMPEL THEM TO MODIFY MY LOAN – This argument is often raised as part of a lawsuit to stop a foreclosure from occurring. The underlying arguments are: 1) the lender did not handle my HAMP modification application properly (Negligence claim); or 2) I met the lender’s or HAMP’s loan mod requirements but the lender denied the modification anyway (Beach of Contract claim) ; or 3) the lender never intended to give me the modification, they just wanted to get my Trial Mod payments (Fraud claim). Most loan modifications on homes are being done under the government’s Home Affordable Modification Program (HAMP). Where a borrower doesn’t fit HAMP’s guidelines, many lenders have their own “proprietary” modification programs. The legal question is whether a borrower can force the lender to modify if they fit within the guidelines. The courts routinely are saying: “No”. In January, 2011, in the case of Phipps v Wells Fargo Bank, the Federal Court ruled that a Borrower has no right to sue a lender to force a HAMP modification. Even before this, in the 2009 case of Pantoja v Countrywide Home Loans, the Federal Court ruled that California laws do not impose a duty to modify a mortgagor’s loan.
2. THE LENDER PROMISED ME THEY WOULD EXTEND THE FORECLOSURE SO I COULD COMPLETE MY MODIFICATION BUT THEY THEN FORECLOSED ANYWAY. THE COURT SHOULD UNWIND THE SALE AND GET MY HOME BACK – Again the courts are routinely saying: “No”. In the 2010 case of Mehta v Wells Fargo Bank (Fed Ct decison 3/29/2011), the Court ruled: a gratuitous oral promise to postpone a sale is ordinarily unenforceable. Typically the loan agreements require that any modification be in writing and signed by all. Alternatively, the borrower must have proviuded the lender with some “consideration” to which the lender is not otherwise entitled. Merely submitting modification application documents is not consideration nor is it enough to have continued making Trial Mod payments. Without a written agreement with the lender extending the sale, the foreclosure will not be rescinded.
3. IF THE LENDER CANNOT PRODUCE THE ORIGINAL PROMISSORY NOTE, THE COURT SHOULD BAR THEM FROM FORECLOSING – This “standing” argument has received extensive publicity natonwide, especially concerning the rights of MERS to foreclose. Although early rulings tended to vary, Courts are more generally ruling in favor of the foreclosing lenders. As stated in Pantoja v Countrywide Home Loans, under California law there is no requirement to produce the original note prior to completing a non-judicial foreclosure (Trustee’s Sale). A different result could possibly arise in a Judicial Foreclosure although that process is extremely rare in a home foreclosure. Similarly, the courts agree that MERS has a right to foreclose when MERS is named in the Deed of Trust (which is most often the case).
4. I WOULD HAVE PAID BUT THE FORECLOSURE NOTICE WAS DEFECTIVE – California has a “Tender Rule” which requires the borrower to allege and to prove not that they “concievably” could have paid, but it was “plausible” that they would have paid. Simply put, actual proof of real capacity to pay is needed. Court rulings are consistent: If you couldn’t pay anyway, a defective notice was not the cause of the foreclosure.
The bottom-line in all of this is to be wary in believing that just because the lender may have mishandled your loan modification, a court will help you out. At a basic level, a loan is a contract between the lender and borrower in which the lender gives the borrower money in exchange for the borrower promising to repay the loan on the terms in the written agreement. Courts will generally not interfere in the contractual agreements of parties unless one of the parties breaches the agreements or does some other illegal action.
Obviously the above analysis just touches the surface of where the law is today. Hundreds and perhaps thousands of cases are moving through the courts as borrowers seek to keep their homes. In some cases, different courts will reach different rulings from those stated in this Article. However, it does appear that these decisions are likely to be widely followed. In fact, just yesterday a Sacramento Superior Court judge denied a Preliminary Injunction after having granted a TRO and allowed the foreclosure to continue. The judge’s legal reasoning cited all of the cases identified above and more.
The information presented in this Article is not to be taken as legal advice. Every person’s situation is different. If you are upside-down on your loan(s), especially if you’re facing a lender lawsuit, or if you are considering suing your lender, get competent legal advice in your State immediately so that you can determine your best options.
If you have specific questions about your upside down loans or real estate, feel free to contact me at kbrazil@earthlink.net. Steve offers a $200 flat fee attorney consultation to review your situation and help you evaluate and choose the best opportunities. This can be done in person or by phone. If interested, please call me at 916-791-9073 and I can give you Steve’s contact information.
Friday, May 20, 2011
Monday, May 16, 2011
Roseville & Rocklin Ca Homes For Sale Including Nearby Cities
Click On Houses To View Homes For Sale
View Roseville & Rocklin Ca Homes For Sale Including Nearby Cities in a larger map
View Roseville & Rocklin Ca Homes For Sale Including Nearby Cities in a larger map
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
Friday, May 6, 2011
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Monday, May 2, 2011
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Foreclosure-vs-Short-Sale-Chart
Click Here For Information
If I can be of assistance or if you have questions about the Short Sale process, please feel feel to contact me.
If I can be of assistance or if you have questions about the Short Sale process, please feel feel to contact me.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Monday, April 18, 2011
10 Tips for Saving Money in the Garden
Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Laura Fisher Kaiser
Carefully plan and plot your garden to add value to your home and make the most of your time and money.
A garden without a plan is like a journey without a destination: You waste a lot of time and money and end up nowhere. High-quality landscaping, however, adds to the value of your home (http://ezinearticles.com/?How-Does-Landscaping-Effect-Your-Homes-Value?&id=873923): The return on investment is 100% to 200%, according to a study conducted by the American Society of Landscape Architects and Money Magazine.
So don't impulsively drive to your garden center. Walk your land, consult an almanac, test the soil, and make a budget. You'll save your back, your budget, and your home's curb appeal.
Tip #1: Get to know your land
Before shelling out money for new plants, consider what's thrived and died in past gardens. Ask, "Is this plant doing its job? Adding beauty? Providing shade? Creating borders?" Give a pink slip to landscaping that's not pulling its weight.
If you're a newcomer to gardening or to the area, scout the neighborhood to see which plants look happy and which wither on the vine.
Keep in mind that even plants appropriate for your growing zone (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html) might not work in your personal patch. Your particular soil conditions, sunlight patterns, pest populations, and available water will determine what will grow. Your local cooperative extension service (http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/) can analyze your soil and recommend amendments and suitable plantings.
Tip #2: Become sun savvy
Even experienced gardeners make mistakes. They plant shade-loving plants in full sun or sun-loving plants in partial shade. Before planting anything in your garden, compare the amount of sunlight your landscaping needs for the amount you have.
Evaluating garden sunlight is tricky because daylight is a moving target: Seasons change and plants mature and cast different shadows.
So before plotting plant beds and tree locations, study the movement of the sun throughout the day and, if you have time, throughout the year. Calculate how many hours of sun each garden section receives. Then check planting directions to make sure your greenery will get what it needs.
Tip #3: Become water wise
Over-watering plants can kill your landscaping and budget. To avoid death by water, know how much and when your greens need to drink: Sales tags should have watering directions.
Drip hoses are thrifty ways to water plants, because the water goes directly to roots, drop by drop. Wind drip hoses around tree bases and bottoms of shrubs. Put hoses on automatic timers to avoid over-watering.
If you have an in-ground sprinkler system, (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/water-saving-irrigation-strategies/) install an ET (evapotranspiraton) controller. These systems, which use real-time weather data sent by satellite to control when sprinklers turn on and off, can cut water use by as much as 30%. The controller costs between $300 and $400, depending on system size, but many municipal water agencies offer rebates, particularly in the arid Southwest.
Tip # 4: Mulch much
Spreading a few inches of mulch in landscaping beds protects your plants and shrubs from drying out, and makes beds look tidy and uniform. Mulch also keeps down weeds and moderates soil temperature.
Organic mulches--grass clippings, wood chips, pine needles--eventually decompose and add vital nutrients to your soil and landscaping. Organics also encourage worm growth, nature's own soil tillers and fertilizers.
Shredded bark mulch from the garden center provides a rich look for your beds, adding curb appeal. It also prevents dirt from splashing on leaves.
Tip #5: Color your garden
Stick to a simple color scheme for flowers and blooming shrubs in your garden. Your landscaping will look more cohesive and professional.
Massing plants of coordinated colors creates a sense of luxury and order. If you like pinks, add lavenders and blue-hued plants. If hot red is your color, mix with yellows and oranges.
Keeping to a single color family in your garden also narrows your focus when roaming plant center aisles. If you are a gardening newbie and can't tell a tea rose from a trumpet vine, ask the store's plant expert for help. Most will be glad to exchange their knowledge for a sale.
Also, gardening catalogs (http://www.bhg.com/gardening/plans/) and websites often group complementary colors together. Some even provide a complete landscape plan, which you can faithfully recreate.
Tip #6: Avoid invaders
Ivies, grasses, and vines will fill in your garden quickly, and just as quickly take over your landscaping. Once these "invasives" take root, unearthing them is difficult, and in some cases, impossible.
Your garden center doesn't call these spreaders "invasives." They are billed as "fast growers" or "aggressives," but often that's code for non-native plants that take over the landscape and crowd out locals by stealing nutrients, light, and water.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture maintains a list of invasives (http://plants.usda.gov/java/noxiousDriver) that includes various ivies, grasses, weeds, vines, self-seeding varieties of bushes and shrubs, and even seemingly innocuous herbs, like mint. Your county extension service can steer you toward the species best suited to your garden. Warning: If you love growing mint, grow it in a pot on your deck or patio.
Tip #7: Beware of neighbors bearing green gifts
You should love thy neighbor, but don't ever take cuttings from their gardens unless you know exactly what they are and how they grow. Self-seeding perennials, such as Black-Eyed Susans and coneflowers, will quickly fill bare spots with splashes of color. If you tire of them, just grab a spade and dig them out.
But if a neighbor extends a slender stalk of Rose of Sharon, or other invasive tree species, run away screaming. These trees will spread throughout your yard and grow roots so deep that only a professional--or the better part of your weekend--can dig and pull them out.
Tip #8: Plant shade trees for natural A/C
Shade trees planted on the south and west sides of a house reduce cooling bills--up to 25%--and lower net carbon emissions. So include shade trees in your landscaping plan.
Choose shade trees (http://srmi.biz/Tips.Low_Cost_Cooling.Choosing_shade_trees.htm) according to their size at maturity, which could be 20 years away. Dense deciduous trees (http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07419.html) --maples, poplars, cottonwoods--are good selections because their leaves cool your house in summer, and their bare branches let light in during winter. Plant them close enough to shade your house, but not so close that they will overwhelm the space.
If you want a faster growing shade tree, about 2 feet per year, select a northern red oak, Freeman maple, or tulip tree.
Tip #9: Power down your lawn mower
The Environmental Protection Agency (http://www.peoplepoweredmachines.com/faq-environment.htm) says gas-powered lawn mowers contribute as much as 5% of the nation's air pollution. Switching to new generation electric and push-reel mowers-which are lighter, quieter, and kinder to your lawn than power mowers-reduces emissions and cuts fuel consumption.
To mow three-quarters of an acre of grass with a power mower requires 1 gallon of gas. As gas prices head to $4 per gallon, you could save $100 a year by switching to a muscle-powered or electric machine. An electric or good push-reel mower (http://www.peoplepoweredmachines.com/reel_mower_landing.htm?gclid=CLWYvbHPyZwCFRHxDAodWDHGJQ) costs $150 to $250, so it will quickly pay for itself.
Tip #10: Grade your landscaping
Once a year, walk your property, cast a hard eye on your garden beds and ask, "Is that plant doing its job? Is it growing into its space, or wandering wherever it likes? Are leaves healthy or spotted with mold and pests? Are these greens improving curb appeal or just making my house look overrun?"
If a plant or shrub isn't working out, it's compost. If shrubs are growing too close to your foundation--1 foot away is good--transplant or prune them.
Make sure trees are growing no closer to your house than the width of their mature canopies. Otherwise roots can burrow into foundations, and overhanging branches can trap moisture against the roof or siding, leading to rot and insect damage.
Check your flowering plants and shrubs to see if they are indeed flowering. Too few or dull blossoms should rally after a dose of fertilizer or layer of compost. An inexpensive alterative to commercial fertilizers is manure tea. Fill the foot of old pantyhose with a clump of cow or horse dung, tie the hose to the watering can handle, and let the manure steep in water. You can get weeks of nutrition from a little bit of dung.
Jeanne Huber is the author of 10 books about home improvement and writes a weekly column about home care for the Washington Post.
By: Laura Fisher Kaiser
Carefully plan and plot your garden to add value to your home and make the most of your time and money.
A garden without a plan is like a journey without a destination: You waste a lot of time and money and end up nowhere. High-quality landscaping, however, adds to the value of your home (http://ezinearticles.com/?How-Does-Landscaping-Effect-Your-Homes-Value?&id=873923): The return on investment is 100% to 200%, according to a study conducted by the American Society of Landscape Architects and Money Magazine.
So don't impulsively drive to your garden center. Walk your land, consult an almanac, test the soil, and make a budget. You'll save your back, your budget, and your home's curb appeal.
Tip #1: Get to know your land
Before shelling out money for new plants, consider what's thrived and died in past gardens. Ask, "Is this plant doing its job? Adding beauty? Providing shade? Creating borders?" Give a pink slip to landscaping that's not pulling its weight.
If you're a newcomer to gardening or to the area, scout the neighborhood to see which plants look happy and which wither on the vine.
Keep in mind that even plants appropriate for your growing zone (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html) might not work in your personal patch. Your particular soil conditions, sunlight patterns, pest populations, and available water will determine what will grow. Your local cooperative extension service (http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/) can analyze your soil and recommend amendments and suitable plantings.
Tip #2: Become sun savvy
Even experienced gardeners make mistakes. They plant shade-loving plants in full sun or sun-loving plants in partial shade. Before planting anything in your garden, compare the amount of sunlight your landscaping needs for the amount you have.
Evaluating garden sunlight is tricky because daylight is a moving target: Seasons change and plants mature and cast different shadows.
So before plotting plant beds and tree locations, study the movement of the sun throughout the day and, if you have time, throughout the year. Calculate how many hours of sun each garden section receives. Then check planting directions to make sure your greenery will get what it needs.
Tip #3: Become water wise
Over-watering plants can kill your landscaping and budget. To avoid death by water, know how much and when your greens need to drink: Sales tags should have watering directions.
Drip hoses are thrifty ways to water plants, because the water goes directly to roots, drop by drop. Wind drip hoses around tree bases and bottoms of shrubs. Put hoses on automatic timers to avoid over-watering.
If you have an in-ground sprinkler system, (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/water-saving-irrigation-strategies/) install an ET (evapotranspiraton) controller. These systems, which use real-time weather data sent by satellite to control when sprinklers turn on and off, can cut water use by as much as 30%. The controller costs between $300 and $400, depending on system size, but many municipal water agencies offer rebates, particularly in the arid Southwest.
Tip # 4: Mulch much
Spreading a few inches of mulch in landscaping beds protects your plants and shrubs from drying out, and makes beds look tidy and uniform. Mulch also keeps down weeds and moderates soil temperature.
Organic mulches--grass clippings, wood chips, pine needles--eventually decompose and add vital nutrients to your soil and landscaping. Organics also encourage worm growth, nature's own soil tillers and fertilizers.
Shredded bark mulch from the garden center provides a rich look for your beds, adding curb appeal. It also prevents dirt from splashing on leaves.
Tip #5: Color your garden
Stick to a simple color scheme for flowers and blooming shrubs in your garden. Your landscaping will look more cohesive and professional.
Massing plants of coordinated colors creates a sense of luxury and order. If you like pinks, add lavenders and blue-hued plants. If hot red is your color, mix with yellows and oranges.
Keeping to a single color family in your garden also narrows your focus when roaming plant center aisles. If you are a gardening newbie and can't tell a tea rose from a trumpet vine, ask the store's plant expert for help. Most will be glad to exchange their knowledge for a sale.
Also, gardening catalogs (http://www.bhg.com/gardening/plans/) and websites often group complementary colors together. Some even provide a complete landscape plan, which you can faithfully recreate.
Tip #6: Avoid invaders
Ivies, grasses, and vines will fill in your garden quickly, and just as quickly take over your landscaping. Once these "invasives" take root, unearthing them is difficult, and in some cases, impossible.
Your garden center doesn't call these spreaders "invasives." They are billed as "fast growers" or "aggressives," but often that's code for non-native plants that take over the landscape and crowd out locals by stealing nutrients, light, and water.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture maintains a list of invasives (http://plants.usda.gov/java/noxiousDriver) that includes various ivies, grasses, weeds, vines, self-seeding varieties of bushes and shrubs, and even seemingly innocuous herbs, like mint. Your county extension service can steer you toward the species best suited to your garden. Warning: If you love growing mint, grow it in a pot on your deck or patio.
Tip #7: Beware of neighbors bearing green gifts
You should love thy neighbor, but don't ever take cuttings from their gardens unless you know exactly what they are and how they grow. Self-seeding perennials, such as Black-Eyed Susans and coneflowers, will quickly fill bare spots with splashes of color. If you tire of them, just grab a spade and dig them out.
But if a neighbor extends a slender stalk of Rose of Sharon, or other invasive tree species, run away screaming. These trees will spread throughout your yard and grow roots so deep that only a professional--or the better part of your weekend--can dig and pull them out.
Tip #8: Plant shade trees for natural A/C
Shade trees planted on the south and west sides of a house reduce cooling bills--up to 25%--and lower net carbon emissions. So include shade trees in your landscaping plan.
Choose shade trees (http://srmi.biz/Tips.Low_Cost_Cooling.Choosing_shade_trees.htm) according to their size at maturity, which could be 20 years away. Dense deciduous trees (http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07419.html) --maples, poplars, cottonwoods--are good selections because their leaves cool your house in summer, and their bare branches let light in during winter. Plant them close enough to shade your house, but not so close that they will overwhelm the space.
If you want a faster growing shade tree, about 2 feet per year, select a northern red oak, Freeman maple, or tulip tree.
Tip #9: Power down your lawn mower
The Environmental Protection Agency (http://www.peoplepoweredmachines.com/faq-environment.htm) says gas-powered lawn mowers contribute as much as 5% of the nation's air pollution. Switching to new generation electric and push-reel mowers-which are lighter, quieter, and kinder to your lawn than power mowers-reduces emissions and cuts fuel consumption.
To mow three-quarters of an acre of grass with a power mower requires 1 gallon of gas. As gas prices head to $4 per gallon, you could save $100 a year by switching to a muscle-powered or electric machine. An electric or good push-reel mower (http://www.peoplepoweredmachines.com/reel_mower_landing.htm?gclid=CLWYvbHPyZwCFRHxDAodWDHGJQ) costs $150 to $250, so it will quickly pay for itself.
Tip #10: Grade your landscaping
Once a year, walk your property, cast a hard eye on your garden beds and ask, "Is that plant doing its job? Is it growing into its space, or wandering wherever it likes? Are leaves healthy or spotted with mold and pests? Are these greens improving curb appeal or just making my house look overrun?"
If a plant or shrub isn't working out, it's compost. If shrubs are growing too close to your foundation--1 foot away is good--transplant or prune them.
Make sure trees are growing no closer to your house than the width of their mature canopies. Otherwise roots can burrow into foundations, and overhanging branches can trap moisture against the roof or siding, leading to rot and insect damage.
Check your flowering plants and shrubs to see if they are indeed flowering. Too few or dull blossoms should rally after a dose of fertilizer or layer of compost. An inexpensive alterative to commercial fertilizers is manure tea. Fill the foot of old pantyhose with a clump of cow or horse dung, tie the hose to the watering can handle, and let the manure steep in water. You can get weeks of nutrition from a little bit of dung.
Jeanne Huber is the author of 10 books about home improvement and writes a weekly column about home care for the Washington Post.
Friday, April 15, 2011
9 House Cleaning Tricks That Save Time, Money and Effort!
from Forbidden Advice
1. Use a timer
Decide how long you’re going to spend cleaning before you start. Next, divide your time into chunks – 15 minutes to vacuum and perhaps the same again at the sink, and so on. Now that you have a timed target, you’ll find you work that bit harder. Also, if you absolutely hate a job – cleaning the bathroom, for example – knowing you’re going to spend just 10 minutes in there may make you feel less bothered about tackling it.
2. Avoid concentrated products
This isn’t something the manufacturers are going to shout about, but unless you use them sparingly, you’re just throwing money away when you choose expensive, high-powered cleansers. Standard-strength products are quite sufficient for most jobs. You actually need very little detergent to clean a dirty kitchen floor – about 2 tablespoons of most standard brands, swished into half a bucket of water. With bleach, adding more doesn’t make it more effective, either. Germs die from the time spent in contact with the disinfecting solution, even when it’s only at the recommended dilution of 1 part bleach to 30 parts water.
3. Clean your windows for less
Save money by making your own glass cleaner. Simply pour 4 liters warm water into a bucket. Add 100 ml white vinegar and 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid and stir well. If you’re cleaning a lot of windows, apply this mixture with a squeegee mop, straight from the bucket. Otherwise, pour it into plastic spray bottles, ready for future use.
4. Give your sink a bath
Abrasive cleaners can scratch your sink. Instead, try an herbal bath. Steep several bunches of rosemary or thyme in hot water for a few hours, then strain. Stop up the sink, pour in the herb solution and let it sit overnight. In the morning, you’ll find a glistening, fragrant sink.
5. Fizz your toilet clean
Most cleaners are tough on your toilet, so try something gentler that will do the job just as well. Once a week, drop two denture tablets into the bowl and leave for at least 20 minutes. Then give the inside of the bowl a quick brushing and flush. The same action that brightens dentures will leave your toilet gleaming.
6. Oven-clean your grill
Put away that wire brush and leave that caustic oven cleaner in the cupboard. Here’s an effortless, non-toxic way to clean the mess off your grill rack. Simply slide it into your self-cleaning oven, turn the setting up to High (around 500°F) and leave for 45 minutes or so. This will scorch away any greasy remnants from the rack. If your barbecue isn’t too big, you can clean its greasy racks in this way, too.
7. Buy extra basics
Having at least two sets of sheets means that you can change bedding on a set day, then launder when you have time. You’ll also save trips upstairs if you keep a set of cleaning products on each floor. Build a high shelf for them in the bathroom, out of reach of young children.
8. Give wipes the boot
Save money by using your own cloths. Spray them with a suitable cleanser and wipe. Then stick them in the washing machine when you’ve finished and select a hot wash to kill any germs.
9. Clean your own curtains
Dirty curtains send some homeowners straight to the Yellow Pages. Then they find out that professional cleaners often charge by the foot to clean curtains. Soon you’re into triple figures. Here are some tricks to keep curtains in peak condition for longer:
■Dust them regularly. Don’t bother taking them down. Simply run your vacuum cleaner over them – from top to bottom – using the dusting brush or upholstery attachment. Focus on the tops and hems, where most dust gathers. Avoid sucking the fabric into the nozzle by either reducing the vacuum pressure or grasping the bottom and holding the curtains tight. If you don’t have the proper attachments, use a feather duster. Dusting prevents dirt build-up and lessens the chance that the curtains will need a major cleaning.
■Wash if you can. Try to identify the fabric, including any trimmings and linings, and use that information to choose the best cleaning method. If you’re unsure about washing, play it safe by just wetting an inside turn-up of fabric first to gauge the effect. Even if you know your curtains can be machine washed and tumble-dried, remove them from the dryer and hang while they’re still damp. This way you’ll avoid having to iron them.
■If washing seems too risky, but you want to freshen your curtains between visits to the drycleaner, hang them out on the line on a breezy day. You can guarantee they will come back fresher.
■Get them measured. Ask your drycleaner to measure your curtains before leaving them for cleaning. If they refuse, go elsewhere. The best cleaners will do as you ask because they will be happy to guarantee that your curtains will come back the same length as they started.
1. Use a timer
Decide how long you’re going to spend cleaning before you start. Next, divide your time into chunks – 15 minutes to vacuum and perhaps the same again at the sink, and so on. Now that you have a timed target, you’ll find you work that bit harder. Also, if you absolutely hate a job – cleaning the bathroom, for example – knowing you’re going to spend just 10 minutes in there may make you feel less bothered about tackling it.
2. Avoid concentrated products
This isn’t something the manufacturers are going to shout about, but unless you use them sparingly, you’re just throwing money away when you choose expensive, high-powered cleansers. Standard-strength products are quite sufficient for most jobs. You actually need very little detergent to clean a dirty kitchen floor – about 2 tablespoons of most standard brands, swished into half a bucket of water. With bleach, adding more doesn’t make it more effective, either. Germs die from the time spent in contact with the disinfecting solution, even when it’s only at the recommended dilution of 1 part bleach to 30 parts water.
3. Clean your windows for less
Save money by making your own glass cleaner. Simply pour 4 liters warm water into a bucket. Add 100 ml white vinegar and 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid and stir well. If you’re cleaning a lot of windows, apply this mixture with a squeegee mop, straight from the bucket. Otherwise, pour it into plastic spray bottles, ready for future use.
4. Give your sink a bath
Abrasive cleaners can scratch your sink. Instead, try an herbal bath. Steep several bunches of rosemary or thyme in hot water for a few hours, then strain. Stop up the sink, pour in the herb solution and let it sit overnight. In the morning, you’ll find a glistening, fragrant sink.
5. Fizz your toilet clean
Most cleaners are tough on your toilet, so try something gentler that will do the job just as well. Once a week, drop two denture tablets into the bowl and leave for at least 20 minutes. Then give the inside of the bowl a quick brushing and flush. The same action that brightens dentures will leave your toilet gleaming.
6. Oven-clean your grill
Put away that wire brush and leave that caustic oven cleaner in the cupboard. Here’s an effortless, non-toxic way to clean the mess off your grill rack. Simply slide it into your self-cleaning oven, turn the setting up to High (around 500°F) and leave for 45 minutes or so. This will scorch away any greasy remnants from the rack. If your barbecue isn’t too big, you can clean its greasy racks in this way, too.
7. Buy extra basics
Having at least two sets of sheets means that you can change bedding on a set day, then launder when you have time. You’ll also save trips upstairs if you keep a set of cleaning products on each floor. Build a high shelf for them in the bathroom, out of reach of young children.
8. Give wipes the boot
Save money by using your own cloths. Spray them with a suitable cleanser and wipe. Then stick them in the washing machine when you’ve finished and select a hot wash to kill any germs.
9. Clean your own curtains
Dirty curtains send some homeowners straight to the Yellow Pages. Then they find out that professional cleaners often charge by the foot to clean curtains. Soon you’re into triple figures. Here are some tricks to keep curtains in peak condition for longer:
■Dust them regularly. Don’t bother taking them down. Simply run your vacuum cleaner over them – from top to bottom – using the dusting brush or upholstery attachment. Focus on the tops and hems, where most dust gathers. Avoid sucking the fabric into the nozzle by either reducing the vacuum pressure or grasping the bottom and holding the curtains tight. If you don’t have the proper attachments, use a feather duster. Dusting prevents dirt build-up and lessens the chance that the curtains will need a major cleaning.
■Wash if you can. Try to identify the fabric, including any trimmings and linings, and use that information to choose the best cleaning method. If you’re unsure about washing, play it safe by just wetting an inside turn-up of fabric first to gauge the effect. Even if you know your curtains can be machine washed and tumble-dried, remove them from the dryer and hang while they’re still damp. This way you’ll avoid having to iron them.
■If washing seems too risky, but you want to freshen your curtains between visits to the drycleaner, hang them out on the line on a breezy day. You can guarantee they will come back fresher.
■Get them measured. Ask your drycleaner to measure your curtains before leaving them for cleaning. If they refuse, go elsewhere. The best cleaners will do as you ask because they will be happy to guarantee that your curtains will come back the same length as they started.
Monday, April 11, 2011
Scan Me With Your Smart Phone
What is a QR Code?? It stands for Quick Response. It can be for mobile property web sites. Scan it and see for your self.
Friday, April 8, 2011
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
7 Gardening Mistakes to Avoid
Article From HouseLogic.com
By: Oliver Marks
Published: February 10, 2011
Even veteran gardeners make rookie mistakes, like giving plants too much water and too little space. Here are common garden blunders. Consider yourself warned.
Gardening (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/10-tips-for-saving-water-garden/) is not rocket science: if you can dig a hole, turn on a spigot, and snip a dead flower off a vine, you can tend a garden.
Still, gardeners have to make some judgment calls. How much water does this shrub need? Will this tree get enough sun? Is this hole deep enough?
It's easy to misjudge and make a mess out of your landscaping. Here are seven common garden blunders, and how to avoid them.
Mistake #1: Too many changes, too soon
The excitement of buying a new home, plus a stretch of warm spring weather, often creates a passion for yard work. But don't just do something, stand there! What looks like a spring weed might be a fall-blooming vine; that bare spot in March might reveal tulips in April.
Try this instead: Live with your land for a year. Observe how many hours of sunlight each part of your garden gets. Test the pH of your soil to determine if acid-loving or alkaline-loving plants will be happy in that particular patch of heaven. Observe when your lawn (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/lawn-maintenance-calendar/) greens up in spring and becomes dormant in late summer.
The money and time you save by watching and waiting will be your own.
Mistake #2: Too much togetherness
Trees (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/plant-trees-save-energy-grow-value/) and shrubs that look properly spaced when you plant them will crowd each other and compete for water, sun, and nutrients in a few years. If you're lucky, you can transplant some bushes; if you're not, you'll have to throw away starved shrubs.
Try this instead: Before digging, read spacing instructions. Give trees plenty of space--you can always fill in later. Stagger bushes and plants and create two rows, which will create more breathing room. The results will look absurdly sparse at first. But live with it. In a few years, your shrubs will fill empty spaces without suffocating each other.
Mistake #3: Planting without a plan
Planting new garden beds without a long-term landscape plan is like pouring a house foundation without blueprints. Your haste results in a waste of time, money, and muscles.
Try this instead: Draw a simple sketch of your yard--what's there now and what you might add later, such as patios (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/evaluate-your-yard-patio/), outbuildings, and pools (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/what_to_consider_before_building_pool/). Bone up on the trees and shrubs that grow best in your soil and climate. Go online and click around landscaping sites that help you pick plants and design beds.
Visit your local nursery or home improvement center where design staff can answer questions and make suggestions. Or hire a professional landscape designer to create a starter plan for as little as $250 to $500. Find a professional at the Association of Professional Landscape Designers (http://www.apld.org/) or the American Society of Landscape Architects. (http://www.asla.org/)
Mistake #4: Neglecting the root of it all
Even the hardiest plants need a little help putting down roots in new locations. Sprinkling the foliage doesn't nourish the roots, the plant's nerve center. You must deliver water (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/10-tips-for-saving-water-garden/) to the root ball below the ground, or your plants will be stunted and short-lived.
Try this instead: Place the hose at the base of new bushes, trees, and plants and let the water trickle out for 20 to 30 minutes, twice a week (more during hot spells), for 4 to 12 weeks. Or snake a soaker hose ($20 for 50 feet) through your beds, which will deliver slow and steady water to roots.
Mistake #5: Forgetting the sun
Too many gardeners pick plants based only on looks, not the growing conditions plants require and the conditions that exist. Rookies will plant sun-loving perennials under an old oak tree or sun-shy hostas in the open. They look great for about a week, and then die.
Try this instead: Observing the spot where you're going to put the plant and estimating the amount of sun it gets over the course of a day during the growing season. To translate that into the language on plant labels, use this key:
Full Sun 6 hours a day or more Part Sun/Part Shade 3 to 5 hours Full Shade Less than 3 hours
Mistake #6: Over-watering
An automatic irrigation system (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/water-saving-irrigation-strategies/) is a luxury that keeps your landscape hydrated throughout the growing season with almost no effort. Unfortunately, auto-watering can bring disease, root rot, and a premature death to plants; it also wastes water.
Many gardeners set watering timers for 15 to 20 minutes each morning, which wets the surface but doesn't soak deeply to nourish roots of large trees and shrubs.
Try this instead: Water for 40 to 60 minutes only two to three times a week. Check with the company that maintains your irrigation system for local recommendations. A deeper soak also helps lawns develop deeper root systems.
Mistake #7: Budget blunders
Your landscaping can fall victim to construction bulldozers that park on lawns and dig too closely to trees and shrubs. New construction also demands rethinking your landscape plan (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/develop-a-landscape-plan-to-fit-your-budget/) to accommodate additions.
Unfortunately, many home owners don't include landscaping in their construction budget. They end up with a beautiful new family room (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/top-features-family-room-addition/), screened porch, or solarium, and a few lonely azaleas planted around the foundation as an afterthought.
Try this instead: Allocate 10% to 20% of your construction budget to the landscape-both hardscaping and plants. If your construction spreadsheet can't stand another line item, make a plan to landscape--in stages, if necessary--as soon as possible after construction is completed.
Oliver Marks is a former carpenter and newspaper reporter who has been writing about home improvements for 16 years.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.
By: Oliver Marks
Published: February 10, 2011
Even veteran gardeners make rookie mistakes, like giving plants too much water and too little space. Here are common garden blunders. Consider yourself warned.
Gardening (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/10-tips-for-saving-water-garden/) is not rocket science: if you can dig a hole, turn on a spigot, and snip a dead flower off a vine, you can tend a garden.
Still, gardeners have to make some judgment calls. How much water does this shrub need? Will this tree get enough sun? Is this hole deep enough?
It's easy to misjudge and make a mess out of your landscaping. Here are seven common garden blunders, and how to avoid them.
Mistake #1: Too many changes, too soon
The excitement of buying a new home, plus a stretch of warm spring weather, often creates a passion for yard work. But don't just do something, stand there! What looks like a spring weed might be a fall-blooming vine; that bare spot in March might reveal tulips in April.
Try this instead: Live with your land for a year. Observe how many hours of sunlight each part of your garden gets. Test the pH of your soil to determine if acid-loving or alkaline-loving plants will be happy in that particular patch of heaven. Observe when your lawn (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/lawn-maintenance-calendar/) greens up in spring and becomes dormant in late summer.
The money and time you save by watching and waiting will be your own.
Mistake #2: Too much togetherness
Trees (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/plant-trees-save-energy-grow-value/) and shrubs that look properly spaced when you plant them will crowd each other and compete for water, sun, and nutrients in a few years. If you're lucky, you can transplant some bushes; if you're not, you'll have to throw away starved shrubs.
Try this instead: Before digging, read spacing instructions. Give trees plenty of space--you can always fill in later. Stagger bushes and plants and create two rows, which will create more breathing room. The results will look absurdly sparse at first. But live with it. In a few years, your shrubs will fill empty spaces without suffocating each other.
Mistake #3: Planting without a plan
Planting new garden beds without a long-term landscape plan is like pouring a house foundation without blueprints. Your haste results in a waste of time, money, and muscles.
Try this instead: Draw a simple sketch of your yard--what's there now and what you might add later, such as patios (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/evaluate-your-yard-patio/), outbuildings, and pools (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/what_to_consider_before_building_pool/). Bone up on the trees and shrubs that grow best in your soil and climate. Go online and click around landscaping sites that help you pick plants and design beds.
Visit your local nursery or home improvement center where design staff can answer questions and make suggestions. Or hire a professional landscape designer to create a starter plan for as little as $250 to $500. Find a professional at the Association of Professional Landscape Designers (http://www.apld.org/) or the American Society of Landscape Architects. (http://www.asla.org/)
Mistake #4: Neglecting the root of it all
Even the hardiest plants need a little help putting down roots in new locations. Sprinkling the foliage doesn't nourish the roots, the plant's nerve center. You must deliver water (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/10-tips-for-saving-water-garden/) to the root ball below the ground, or your plants will be stunted and short-lived.
Try this instead: Place the hose at the base of new bushes, trees, and plants and let the water trickle out for 20 to 30 minutes, twice a week (more during hot spells), for 4 to 12 weeks. Or snake a soaker hose ($20 for 50 feet) through your beds, which will deliver slow and steady water to roots.
Mistake #5: Forgetting the sun
Too many gardeners pick plants based only on looks, not the growing conditions plants require and the conditions that exist. Rookies will plant sun-loving perennials under an old oak tree or sun-shy hostas in the open. They look great for about a week, and then die.
Try this instead: Observing the spot where you're going to put the plant and estimating the amount of sun it gets over the course of a day during the growing season. To translate that into the language on plant labels, use this key:
Full Sun 6 hours a day or more Part Sun/Part Shade 3 to 5 hours Full Shade Less than 3 hours
Mistake #6: Over-watering
An automatic irrigation system (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/water-saving-irrigation-strategies/) is a luxury that keeps your landscape hydrated throughout the growing season with almost no effort. Unfortunately, auto-watering can bring disease, root rot, and a premature death to plants; it also wastes water.
Many gardeners set watering timers for 15 to 20 minutes each morning, which wets the surface but doesn't soak deeply to nourish roots of large trees and shrubs.
Try this instead: Water for 40 to 60 minutes only two to three times a week. Check with the company that maintains your irrigation system for local recommendations. A deeper soak also helps lawns develop deeper root systems.
Mistake #7: Budget blunders
Your landscaping can fall victim to construction bulldozers that park on lawns and dig too closely to trees and shrubs. New construction also demands rethinking your landscape plan (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/develop-a-landscape-plan-to-fit-your-budget/) to accommodate additions.
Unfortunately, many home owners don't include landscaping in their construction budget. They end up with a beautiful new family room (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/top-features-family-room-addition/), screened porch, or solarium, and a few lonely azaleas planted around the foundation as an afterthought.
Try this instead: Allocate 10% to 20% of your construction budget to the landscape-both hardscaping and plants. If your construction spreadsheet can't stand another line item, make a plan to landscape--in stages, if necessary--as soon as possible after construction is completed.
Oliver Marks is a former carpenter and newspaper reporter who has been writing about home improvements for 16 years.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Copyright 2011. All rights reserved.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Saturday, April 2, 2011
New Listing in Roseville Ca
Highland Park in Roseville
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Wednesday, March 30, 2011
Spending Smart: Gas-sipping Tips to Fuel Money Savings
By Gregory Karp
RISMEDIA, March 30, 2011—(MCT) —Four-buck gasoline is a reality again for some American motorists. Only this time, unlike 2008, the price spike follows years of deep national recession and its aftermath—including rampant job loss and home foreclosures. That means many households’ battered budgets are less able to absorb higher gas prices, especially when the costs of such necessities as food and clothing are rising fast too.
Paying $4 per gallon would mean a household spends $4,800 on gasoline in a year, assuming the household owns two vehicles getting 25 miles to the gallon and traveling 15,000 miles. There’s a one-in-four chance that the average price of gas nationwide this summer will exceed $4 per gallon, according to a forecast by the U.S. Energy Information Administration.
For consumers, a long-term solution to higher gas prices is to drive less or drive a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But in the short term it matters more “how” you drive than “what” you drive.
Here are suggestions for saving money on gasoline, with help from the U.S. Department of Energy, Consumer Reports, the Alliance to Save Energy and Edmunds.com.
• Don’t spill the coffee: The biggest savings will come from avoiding aggressive driving. It can lower your gas mileage by 33 percent at highway speeds and by 5 percent around town.
- Not sure what less-aggressive driving is? Imagine a lidless cup of coffee in your car’s cup holder. Drive like you don’t want to spill it. That means gradual acceleration and gentle braking.
- Potential savings vary widely but are significant when you curb aggressive driving. At $4 per gallon, gas savings could range from 20 cents to $1.32 per gallon, based on Energy Department figures. That’s a savings of $240 to $1,584 per year for that two-car household described earlier.
• Speed kills: Consumer Reports found that slowing from 75 to 55 mph boosted gas mileage 33 percent in testing performed on a family sedan and a large SUV.
• American idle: Idling yields zero mpg. Don’t bother warming up your car or keeping it running while waiting for passengers. The rule of thumb is to turn off your car if you know you’ll be stopped for more than 30 seconds, Consumer Reports says. Cars with larger engines typically waste more gas idling than those with small engines.
• Trunk junk: An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your gas mileage by up to 2 percent, or about 8 cents per gallon. Roof junk—carrying large items on the roof of the vehicle—creates drag that can cut gas mileage by 5 percent.
• Use cruise: Cruise control is steadier on the accelerator pedal than you are. You might try it on lower-speed suburban roads. Edmunds.com called it a “surprisingly effective way to save gas.”
• Find cheaper gas: Compare gasoline prices with online sources like GasBuddy.com, GasPriceWatch.com or http://gasprices.mapquest.com/. Of course, you don’t want to drive far out of your way to save a few pennies. Savings will be lost traveling to a distant service station.
- Billshrink.com will send you an email alerting you to the lowest-price gas on your commute. Gas price information also is available via smartphone apps, such as Gas Buddy and AAA’s TripTik Mobile.
• Use GPS: Computerized travel directions from GPS devices or smartphones can help find efficient routes, even among multiple destinations. That can save time, hassle and gas. If you don’t have a device, use a website such as http://www.mapquest.com/routeplanner.
- Plotting a route by hand works, too, using a folding map or road atlas. Several devices and websites also alert you to traffic jams—a gas-mileage killer.
• Seek discounts: Be on the lookout for promotions and sales that allow you to acquire gasoline station gift cards for free or at a discount. For example, you might be able to redeem credit card rewards points for a gas card. And Choice Hotels, which owns such properties as Comfort Inn and Clarion, is offering a $50 gas card when you book two stays before May 4.
• Make radical changes: Change your work hours to avoid rush-hour traffic, use carpools and ride-sharing programs, take public transportation, walk or bike to work, or work from home.
• Shop online: If you spend evenings or weekends running errands to various stores, consider ordering products online and let someone else pay for the gas. That’s doable if you can find free shipping online or lower product prices to compensate for shipping fees. Free shipping often comes in the form of a coupon code used at online checkout. Use a search engine with keywords “coupon code” and the retailer’s name.
• More math: Make gas mileage a criterion as you select your next vehicle. The difference between choosing a vehicle that gets 20 mpg and 30 mpg is huge. Assuming $4-per-gallon gas, you would save $1,000 a year per car. Over the typical five years of ownership, that’s $10,000 saved for a two-car family.
• Stay cool: Some advice on saving gas is dubious. Don’t sweat the argument over staying cool with air conditioning versus lowering the windows. Edmunds.com testing found neither made a huge difference to gas mileage.
• Inflate tires: The U.S. Energy Department says underinflated tires can increase fuel consumption more than 3 percent. However, a test by Edmunds.com couldn’t find much effect on gas mileage, although properly inflated tires are important for safety and to reduce tire wear. Find the proper inflation level on the driver’s side door jamb or in the owner’s manual, not the maximum pressure embossed on the tire sidewall. Similar is the usual advice to replace air filters to save gas. On modern cars, replacing a filter will improve acceleration performance but not gas mileage.
• Gas additives: Advertisements for gasoline additives that supposedly deliver better mileage are exaggerations or outright lies, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, which has tested more than 100 of them. Consumer Reports’ tests of some gas-saving products that promise better fuel economy showed none worked, including Fuel Doctor and Fuel Genie. “Simply put: Don’t waste your money,” Consumer Reports says. Some “gas-saving” products may damage a car’s engine or cause substantial increases in exhaust emissions, according to the EPA.
Gregory Karp, the author of “Living Rich by Spending Smart,” writes for the Chicago Tribune.
RISMEDIA, March 30, 2011—(MCT) —Four-buck gasoline is a reality again for some American motorists. Only this time, unlike 2008, the price spike follows years of deep national recession and its aftermath—including rampant job loss and home foreclosures. That means many households’ battered budgets are less able to absorb higher gas prices, especially when the costs of such necessities as food and clothing are rising fast too.
Paying $4 per gallon would mean a household spends $4,800 on gasoline in a year, assuming the household owns two vehicles getting 25 miles to the gallon and traveling 15,000 miles. There’s a one-in-four chance that the average price of gas nationwide this summer will exceed $4 per gallon, according to a forecast by the U.S. Energy Information Administration.
For consumers, a long-term solution to higher gas prices is to drive less or drive a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But in the short term it matters more “how” you drive than “what” you drive.
Here are suggestions for saving money on gasoline, with help from the U.S. Department of Energy, Consumer Reports, the Alliance to Save Energy and Edmunds.com.
• Don’t spill the coffee: The biggest savings will come from avoiding aggressive driving. It can lower your gas mileage by 33 percent at highway speeds and by 5 percent around town.
- Not sure what less-aggressive driving is? Imagine a lidless cup of coffee in your car’s cup holder. Drive like you don’t want to spill it. That means gradual acceleration and gentle braking.
- Potential savings vary widely but are significant when you curb aggressive driving. At $4 per gallon, gas savings could range from 20 cents to $1.32 per gallon, based on Energy Department figures. That’s a savings of $240 to $1,584 per year for that two-car household described earlier.
• Speed kills: Consumer Reports found that slowing from 75 to 55 mph boosted gas mileage 33 percent in testing performed on a family sedan and a large SUV.
• American idle: Idling yields zero mpg. Don’t bother warming up your car or keeping it running while waiting for passengers. The rule of thumb is to turn off your car if you know you’ll be stopped for more than 30 seconds, Consumer Reports says. Cars with larger engines typically waste more gas idling than those with small engines.
• Trunk junk: An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your gas mileage by up to 2 percent, or about 8 cents per gallon. Roof junk—carrying large items on the roof of the vehicle—creates drag that can cut gas mileage by 5 percent.
• Use cruise: Cruise control is steadier on the accelerator pedal than you are. You might try it on lower-speed suburban roads. Edmunds.com called it a “surprisingly effective way to save gas.”
• Find cheaper gas: Compare gasoline prices with online sources like GasBuddy.com, GasPriceWatch.com or http://gasprices.mapquest.com/. Of course, you don’t want to drive far out of your way to save a few pennies. Savings will be lost traveling to a distant service station.
- Billshrink.com will send you an email alerting you to the lowest-price gas on your commute. Gas price information also is available via smartphone apps, such as Gas Buddy and AAA’s TripTik Mobile.
• Use GPS: Computerized travel directions from GPS devices or smartphones can help find efficient routes, even among multiple destinations. That can save time, hassle and gas. If you don’t have a device, use a website such as http://www.mapquest.com/routeplanner.
- Plotting a route by hand works, too, using a folding map or road atlas. Several devices and websites also alert you to traffic jams—a gas-mileage killer.
• Seek discounts: Be on the lookout for promotions and sales that allow you to acquire gasoline station gift cards for free or at a discount. For example, you might be able to redeem credit card rewards points for a gas card. And Choice Hotels, which owns such properties as Comfort Inn and Clarion, is offering a $50 gas card when you book two stays before May 4.
• Make radical changes: Change your work hours to avoid rush-hour traffic, use carpools and ride-sharing programs, take public transportation, walk or bike to work, or work from home.
• Shop online: If you spend evenings or weekends running errands to various stores, consider ordering products online and let someone else pay for the gas. That’s doable if you can find free shipping online or lower product prices to compensate for shipping fees. Free shipping often comes in the form of a coupon code used at online checkout. Use a search engine with keywords “coupon code” and the retailer’s name.
• More math: Make gas mileage a criterion as you select your next vehicle. The difference between choosing a vehicle that gets 20 mpg and 30 mpg is huge. Assuming $4-per-gallon gas, you would save $1,000 a year per car. Over the typical five years of ownership, that’s $10,000 saved for a two-car family.
• Stay cool: Some advice on saving gas is dubious. Don’t sweat the argument over staying cool with air conditioning versus lowering the windows. Edmunds.com testing found neither made a huge difference to gas mileage.
• Inflate tires: The U.S. Energy Department says underinflated tires can increase fuel consumption more than 3 percent. However, a test by Edmunds.com couldn’t find much effect on gas mileage, although properly inflated tires are important for safety and to reduce tire wear. Find the proper inflation level on the driver’s side door jamb or in the owner’s manual, not the maximum pressure embossed on the tire sidewall. Similar is the usual advice to replace air filters to save gas. On modern cars, replacing a filter will improve acceleration performance but not gas mileage.
• Gas additives: Advertisements for gasoline additives that supposedly deliver better mileage are exaggerations or outright lies, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, which has tested more than 100 of them. Consumer Reports’ tests of some gas-saving products that promise better fuel economy showed none worked, including Fuel Doctor and Fuel Genie. “Simply put: Don’t waste your money,” Consumer Reports says. Some “gas-saving” products may damage a car’s engine or cause substantial increases in exhaust emissions, according to the EPA.
Gregory Karp, the author of “Living Rich by Spending Smart,” writes for the Chicago Tribune.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
WHY NOW MAY BE THE BEST TIME TO BUY REAL ESTATE
By Steve Beede
As any observer of the real estate market knows, property pricing remains in the dumps with most sales being either short sales or foreclosures and REO's. While the economy in general appears to be recovering, real estate has been lagging behind. 2011 is projected to see increasing foreclosures as lenders clean-out their backlog of defaulted loans. Meanwhile, we're just starting into dealing with upside down commercial properties. For this reason, many economists project we won't really turn the corner on real estate recovery until 2014 at the earliest. So why might this be the best time to buy?
1. Properties are Undervalued - As reported in DSNews.com, based on the latest Case-Shiller home price index, a study by Capital Economics shows that in the fourth quarter of 2010, housing was 21 percent undervalued when compared with disposable income per capital. Looking at data included in the index published by the Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA), the firm found that housing in Q4 was 15 percent undervalued as measured against individuals' disposable income. Capital Economics says its results illustrate "housing is exceptionally undervalued," and the gap is getting bigger. In its third quarter 2010 report, the research firm pegged the Case-Shiller index readings as 19 percent undervalued and the FHFA index as 14 percent below what would constitute a balanced housing value in relation to income. This downward pressure on prices will continue as the foreclosures clear out, opening the gap even further.
2. Financing Remains Very Affordable - On top of low prices, mortgage rates have fallen back a bit in recent weeks, leaving them even further below the 20-year average of 7 percent. Last week marked the third consecutive week that rates have continued to decline. A national survey conducted by Freddie Mac shows that the average 30-year fixed-rate has dropped to 4.87 percent, while the 15-year fixed-rate has slipped to 4.15 percent. When you wrap declining home prices and historically low mortgage rates together, Capital Economics says, "The incredibly favorable affordability and valuation environment is the housing market's one big positive."
3. Government Financial Support May be Ending - As my readers know, the future of FNMA and Freddie Mac is in jeopardy. These Government Sponsored Enterprises (GSE's) were originally created to provide a funding source for socially desireable but higher risk loans. When started, GSE's provided funds for 30% of all loans. Today, that number is 90% and steps are being taken in Congress to get government out of the lending business or at least scale it back. Last week, Freddie Mac published a Memo that starting June 1st, they will no longer purchase loans with loan-to-value ratios of less than 5%. As these GSE's retract from the marketplace, interest rates and down-payment requirements are likely to rise making home ownership less achievable.
4. Buy to Own or Invest, not to Flip - While there will always be opportunities for the knowledgeable and dilligent to make money flipping properties, declining prices and increasing loan costs will shrink the profit margins available as flippers find it harder to re-sell. In contrast, those who buy for their home or for rental investment will benefit from 1) locking in the profit margin between current prices and actual value; and 2) potentially higher rental values as the ranks of renters swell with people who cannot obtain a loan to buy their own home.
All of the above factors indicate that right now may be the ideal time to buy real estate, not for quick profit but for the long-term stability and financial growth that real estate has historically provided as a part of your overall financial plans.
As any observer of the real estate market knows, property pricing remains in the dumps with most sales being either short sales or foreclosures and REO's. While the economy in general appears to be recovering, real estate has been lagging behind. 2011 is projected to see increasing foreclosures as lenders clean-out their backlog of defaulted loans. Meanwhile, we're just starting into dealing with upside down commercial properties. For this reason, many economists project we won't really turn the corner on real estate recovery until 2014 at the earliest. So why might this be the best time to buy?
1. Properties are Undervalued - As reported in DSNews.com, based on the latest Case-Shiller home price index, a study by Capital Economics shows that in the fourth quarter of 2010, housing was 21 percent undervalued when compared with disposable income per capital. Looking at data included in the index published by the Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA), the firm found that housing in Q4 was 15 percent undervalued as measured against individuals' disposable income. Capital Economics says its results illustrate "housing is exceptionally undervalued," and the gap is getting bigger. In its third quarter 2010 report, the research firm pegged the Case-Shiller index readings as 19 percent undervalued and the FHFA index as 14 percent below what would constitute a balanced housing value in relation to income. This downward pressure on prices will continue as the foreclosures clear out, opening the gap even further.
2. Financing Remains Very Affordable - On top of low prices, mortgage rates have fallen back a bit in recent weeks, leaving them even further below the 20-year average of 7 percent. Last week marked the third consecutive week that rates have continued to decline. A national survey conducted by Freddie Mac shows that the average 30-year fixed-rate has dropped to 4.87 percent, while the 15-year fixed-rate has slipped to 4.15 percent. When you wrap declining home prices and historically low mortgage rates together, Capital Economics says, "The incredibly favorable affordability and valuation environment is the housing market's one big positive."
3. Government Financial Support May be Ending - As my readers know, the future of FNMA and Freddie Mac is in jeopardy. These Government Sponsored Enterprises (GSE's) were originally created to provide a funding source for socially desireable but higher risk loans. When started, GSE's provided funds for 30% of all loans. Today, that number is 90% and steps are being taken in Congress to get government out of the lending business or at least scale it back. Last week, Freddie Mac published a Memo that starting June 1st, they will no longer purchase loans with loan-to-value ratios of less than 5%. As these GSE's retract from the marketplace, interest rates and down-payment requirements are likely to rise making home ownership less achievable.
4. Buy to Own or Invest, not to Flip - While there will always be opportunities for the knowledgeable and dilligent to make money flipping properties, declining prices and increasing loan costs will shrink the profit margins available as flippers find it harder to re-sell. In contrast, those who buy for their home or for rental investment will benefit from 1) locking in the profit margin between current prices and actual value; and 2) potentially higher rental values as the ranks of renters swell with people who cannot obtain a loan to buy their own home.
All of the above factors indicate that right now may be the ideal time to buy real estate, not for quick profit but for the long-term stability and financial growth that real estate has historically provided as a part of your overall financial plans.
Friday, March 18, 2011
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Saturday, March 5, 2011
8 Areas to Pay Attention to When Updating Your Kitchen
RISMEDIA, March 5, 2011—(MCT)—What’s cooking in kitchens? Simpler styling, hidden appliances and a bit of color to make life interesting, to name just a few things. If you’re getting ready to update your kitchen, you may want to pay attention to the following trends that are popular in kitchen showrooms right now.
Clean lines
Fancy is fading. Kitchens are moving away from ornate looks such as Tuscan and French country in favor of more transitional design, a trend Betty Nairn of Cabinet-S-Top in Granger Township, Ohio, calls “simplistic luxury.”
The move toward clean lines and less ornamentation is due at least in part to homeowners thinking ahead, said Debra Shababy of Studio 76 Kitchens and Baths in Twinsburg, Ohio. Many are looking toward selling their homes as the economy improves, and they want their kitchens to appeal to a broad range of buyers.
Contemporary design is gaining interest, too—even in the Midwest, a region long tied to the traditional. Barbara Dillick of Kitchen Design Group in Bath Township, Ohio, figures people have become more comfortable with the spare, sleek look because they’ve been exposed to it through magazines, TV shows and upscale hotels.
Built-in dining
Eat-in kitchens are still in demand, but where we do that eating has changed. The bar-style counter is still popular, but it’s giving way in many new kitchens to an extension of the counter that looks more like a table.
Sometimes the extension is counter height; sometime it’s higher or lower. What sets it apart from bar seating is that it’s designed so the diners sit around the edge and face one another, rather than sitting in a line.
The idea of trading a table for a counter extension makes some homeowners nervous initially, Kitchen Design Group’s Deanna Carleton said. But the setup has advantages: It saves space, the extension can do double duty as an extra buffet surface and the deep base that holds the countertop provides a good amount of storage.
Safety, sustainability
More than ever, consumers are paying attention to the materials that go into their kitchens, Shababy said.
She said many respond positively when she suggests cabinet finishes with low levels of volatile organic compounds, vapors that contribute to indoor air pollution. They also like cabinets that are joined with dowels instead of glues containing formaldehyde.
Safety features are popular, such as lockouts that prevent stove burners from being turned on accidentally and mechanisms that keep drawers and cabinet doors from slamming on little fingers, Shababy said.
And people are leaning toward energy-saving features such as LED lights, as well as natural products such as wood floors and stone countertops. Granite is still the top choice for countertops, especially since common types have become affordable for most people, the designers agreed. But quartz—stone chips mixed with binders and colorants—is coming on strong, they said.
Lighting
Kitchen lighting isn’t just a matter of function anymore. It’s also an expression of personality, Carleton said.
Hand-blown glass shades on pendant lights, contemporary drum shades and elegant chandeliers are all ways homeowners can infuse their style into a kitchen without making a big commitment. After all, it’s easier and cheaper to change lighting fixtures than it is cabinets or countertops.
Layers of light continue to be common in kitchen design—for example, a ceiling fixture combined with under-counter task lighting and ambient lights behind a glass-front door. But gimmicky lighting schemes such as lighted toe kicks aren’t so popular, Dillick said.
LEDs are finding their way into the kitchen, mainly in under-counter lighting but also in recessed ceiling lights. They’re available in both cool and warm lights to fit different decors and preferences.
Nairn has also seen a big preference for natural lighting via windows, skylights or reflective light tubes.
Refrigerator options
The depth of the typical refrigerator poses a design challenge, particularly in smaller kitchens. Manufacturers have responded with shallower appliances and drawer models, which are often used in combination in the same room.
Counter-depth refrigerators are easier to fit into a kitchen because they don’t jut out into the room. But even though they’re often taller, they typically have less storage space, Nairn said. Some designers are dealing with space shortage by incorporating drawer refrigerators or freezers into the cabinets to hold additional food. Shababy said this kind of arrangement makes sense only when the drawer holds foods that are used mostly in a particular part of the kitchen—for example, a drawer for vegetables next to the sink where they’re cleaned and prepared.
Bars
Bars are coming out of the great room and into the kitchen. Dillick said many of her company’s clients are requesting bar areas in the kitchen where they can store everything in one convenient spot. Often, they’re taking out kitchen desks to free the space.
Bar cabinets that look like pantries are popular as well. Often they’re outfitted with a wine or beverage refrigerator; storage space for glassware, knives and a cutting board; and sometimes a sink.
Color
Most homeowners still tend toward the safe and neutral in their kitchen’s more permanent items—cupboards, countertops and flooring. But that doesn’t mean kitchens can’t be colorful.
Walls are sporting bold hues such as persimmon or pomegranate, Dillick said. Accessories and appliances bring spots of color, such as a range with colored knobs and a cobalt oven interior that “people fall in love with,” she said. It’s also popular to work a colorful painted cabinet or two in among white or natural wood cabinets to add a bit of interest.
Dillick has also seen the comeback of window seats, which provide the opportunity to add color in the form of fabric. Upholstered seats, pillows and window valances all add a bit of color and softness, which are often lacking in a room filled mostly with hard surfaces.
Individualism
All of the kitchen designers were hesitant to talk in terms of trends, because they believe a kitchen’s design should suit the individual. Kitchens are places where we spend a lot of time, so it’s more important to have what you like, not what’s popular, they said. “Really, it’s up to you,” Shababy said. “It’s whatever makes you happy being in your kitchen.”
(c) 2011, Akron Beacon Journal (Akron, Ohio).
Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.
Clean lines
Fancy is fading. Kitchens are moving away from ornate looks such as Tuscan and French country in favor of more transitional design, a trend Betty Nairn of Cabinet-S-Top in Granger Township, Ohio, calls “simplistic luxury.”
The move toward clean lines and less ornamentation is due at least in part to homeowners thinking ahead, said Debra Shababy of Studio 76 Kitchens and Baths in Twinsburg, Ohio. Many are looking toward selling their homes as the economy improves, and they want their kitchens to appeal to a broad range of buyers.
Contemporary design is gaining interest, too—even in the Midwest, a region long tied to the traditional. Barbara Dillick of Kitchen Design Group in Bath Township, Ohio, figures people have become more comfortable with the spare, sleek look because they’ve been exposed to it through magazines, TV shows and upscale hotels.
Built-in dining
Eat-in kitchens are still in demand, but where we do that eating has changed. The bar-style counter is still popular, but it’s giving way in many new kitchens to an extension of the counter that looks more like a table.
Sometimes the extension is counter height; sometime it’s higher or lower. What sets it apart from bar seating is that it’s designed so the diners sit around the edge and face one another, rather than sitting in a line.
The idea of trading a table for a counter extension makes some homeowners nervous initially, Kitchen Design Group’s Deanna Carleton said. But the setup has advantages: It saves space, the extension can do double duty as an extra buffet surface and the deep base that holds the countertop provides a good amount of storage.
Safety, sustainability
More than ever, consumers are paying attention to the materials that go into their kitchens, Shababy said.
She said many respond positively when she suggests cabinet finishes with low levels of volatile organic compounds, vapors that contribute to indoor air pollution. They also like cabinets that are joined with dowels instead of glues containing formaldehyde.
Safety features are popular, such as lockouts that prevent stove burners from being turned on accidentally and mechanisms that keep drawers and cabinet doors from slamming on little fingers, Shababy said.
And people are leaning toward energy-saving features such as LED lights, as well as natural products such as wood floors and stone countertops. Granite is still the top choice for countertops, especially since common types have become affordable for most people, the designers agreed. But quartz—stone chips mixed with binders and colorants—is coming on strong, they said.
Lighting
Kitchen lighting isn’t just a matter of function anymore. It’s also an expression of personality, Carleton said.
Hand-blown glass shades on pendant lights, contemporary drum shades and elegant chandeliers are all ways homeowners can infuse their style into a kitchen without making a big commitment. After all, it’s easier and cheaper to change lighting fixtures than it is cabinets or countertops.
Layers of light continue to be common in kitchen design—for example, a ceiling fixture combined with under-counter task lighting and ambient lights behind a glass-front door. But gimmicky lighting schemes such as lighted toe kicks aren’t so popular, Dillick said.
LEDs are finding their way into the kitchen, mainly in under-counter lighting but also in recessed ceiling lights. They’re available in both cool and warm lights to fit different decors and preferences.
Nairn has also seen a big preference for natural lighting via windows, skylights or reflective light tubes.
Refrigerator options
The depth of the typical refrigerator poses a design challenge, particularly in smaller kitchens. Manufacturers have responded with shallower appliances and drawer models, which are often used in combination in the same room.
Counter-depth refrigerators are easier to fit into a kitchen because they don’t jut out into the room. But even though they’re often taller, they typically have less storage space, Nairn said. Some designers are dealing with space shortage by incorporating drawer refrigerators or freezers into the cabinets to hold additional food. Shababy said this kind of arrangement makes sense only when the drawer holds foods that are used mostly in a particular part of the kitchen—for example, a drawer for vegetables next to the sink where they’re cleaned and prepared.
Bars
Bars are coming out of the great room and into the kitchen. Dillick said many of her company’s clients are requesting bar areas in the kitchen where they can store everything in one convenient spot. Often, they’re taking out kitchen desks to free the space.
Bar cabinets that look like pantries are popular as well. Often they’re outfitted with a wine or beverage refrigerator; storage space for glassware, knives and a cutting board; and sometimes a sink.
Color
Most homeowners still tend toward the safe and neutral in their kitchen’s more permanent items—cupboards, countertops and flooring. But that doesn’t mean kitchens can’t be colorful.
Walls are sporting bold hues such as persimmon or pomegranate, Dillick said. Accessories and appliances bring spots of color, such as a range with colored knobs and a cobalt oven interior that “people fall in love with,” she said. It’s also popular to work a colorful painted cabinet or two in among white or natural wood cabinets to add a bit of interest.
Dillick has also seen the comeback of window seats, which provide the opportunity to add color in the form of fabric. Upholstered seats, pillows and window valances all add a bit of color and softness, which are often lacking in a room filled mostly with hard surfaces.
Individualism
All of the kitchen designers were hesitant to talk in terms of trends, because they believe a kitchen’s design should suit the individual. Kitchens are places where we spend a lot of time, so it’s more important to have what you like, not what’s popular, they said. “Really, it’s up to you,” Shababy said. “It’s whatever makes you happy being in your kitchen.”
(c) 2011, Akron Beacon Journal (Akron, Ohio).
Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Should you pay off the house?
By Lisa Gibbs, Money MagazineFebruary 23, 2011: 4:46 PM ET
(MONEY Magazine) -- When there was easy money to be made in real estate and stocks, mortgage debt seemed like nothing to fear. Now an increasing number of homeowners are wondering if it makes sense to hasten the day they can say goodbye to a big monthly expense while earning the equivalent of a decent, guaranteed return.
"I'm hearing this question more now that clients aren't feeling as comfortable about the market," says Los Angeles area financial planner Eileen Freiburger.
Maybe you're part of a young family, and whittling down your loan balance seems like a sound strategy. Or maybe you're counting down to retirement (perhaps even already kicking back), have only a few years of payments left, and are wondering if you should just knock off the balance.
But if you're thinking of such a move, you're also well aware that mortgage interest is tax-deductible -- and if history is any guide, putting money into stocks will earn you a higher return over the long haul than putting it into real estate.
The answers to the questions below can help you determine your best course of action.
Do you have more pressing financial needs?
Anyone who has credit card debt or isn't maxing out her 401(k) should make those the priority. You should also have at least six months' worth of living expenses in cash.
A few years ago you would have been able to pull money out of your home quickly if, say, you lost your job. Now that lenders have tightened up, that's not so easy.
Retirees and near-retirees contemplating a lump-sum payoff need to ensure they have enough liquid savings to handle emergencies such as unexpected medical expenses, especially because it's hard to tap equity on homes without first mortgages.
And you shouldn't pull money out of your IRA to pay off your home loan, since the IRA funds will be taxed at ordinary income rates.
How long do you plan to stay?
If you plan to trade up to a larger home or downsize to a smaller one within five years, it doesn't make sense to put extra money into your mortgage. The real estate market may be shaky for a while longer, and "you don't want to tie up your cash in your home and then not be able to sell," says La Jolla, Calif., financial planner Christopher Van Slyke.
What do you really gain from the interest tax deduction?
Assuming you itemize your deductions, you can find out what you save by multiplying the mortgage interest you paid last year by your tax rate (federal plus state). A couple in the 28% tax bracket, with a $200,000 loan at 5%, for example, will save $2,781 in taxes the first year of a loan.
'Substantial risk' of 25% drop in housing
Your tax savings decline the further you get into the loan, as more money is applied toward principal.
For many retirees and near-retirees close to the end of the mortgage, the interest deduction is not a reason to avoid paying off the loan, especially since retirees often end up in a lower tax bracket, says planner Peter Canniff of Nashua, N.H.
How would you otherwise invest the money?
Put your money into stocks and bonds and you're likely to get a higher return over the long run than you would paying off your home loan, given today's low rates.
If you itemize, you can calculate your effective return by multiplying your mortgage rate and your tax rate, then subtracting the answer from your mortgage rate (you can do this with the mortgage tax-deduction calculator at bankrate.com/calculators.aspx).
So for someone in the 28% tax bracket with a 5% mortgage, the effective rate of return on paying off the mortgage is 3.6%. By comparison, a 50/50 stock/bond portfolio has historically earned 8.2% long term, though it's sensible to expect future returns to be a more modest 6%.
Still, if you're very skittish about the market or are a retiree keeping a big chunk of money in low-earning CDs, you might do better by losing the loan, given that the average five-year CD is paying just 1.6%.
"For retirees, it's hard to beat the guaranteed return," says Anthony Webb, an economist at Boston College's Center for Retirement Research.
Will being debt-free help you sleep better?
In that case, you might be willing to forgo the extra return you could earn in the market. "Less stress, less worry," says Orlando-area planner Brian Fricke. "Sometimes that matters more than the math."
(MONEY Magazine) -- When there was easy money to be made in real estate and stocks, mortgage debt seemed like nothing to fear. Now an increasing number of homeowners are wondering if it makes sense to hasten the day they can say goodbye to a big monthly expense while earning the equivalent of a decent, guaranteed return.
"I'm hearing this question more now that clients aren't feeling as comfortable about the market," says Los Angeles area financial planner Eileen Freiburger.
Maybe you're part of a young family, and whittling down your loan balance seems like a sound strategy. Or maybe you're counting down to retirement (perhaps even already kicking back), have only a few years of payments left, and are wondering if you should just knock off the balance.
But if you're thinking of such a move, you're also well aware that mortgage interest is tax-deductible -- and if history is any guide, putting money into stocks will earn you a higher return over the long haul than putting it into real estate.
The answers to the questions below can help you determine your best course of action.
Do you have more pressing financial needs?
Anyone who has credit card debt or isn't maxing out her 401(k) should make those the priority. You should also have at least six months' worth of living expenses in cash.
A few years ago you would have been able to pull money out of your home quickly if, say, you lost your job. Now that lenders have tightened up, that's not so easy.
Retirees and near-retirees contemplating a lump-sum payoff need to ensure they have enough liquid savings to handle emergencies such as unexpected medical expenses, especially because it's hard to tap equity on homes without first mortgages.
And you shouldn't pull money out of your IRA to pay off your home loan, since the IRA funds will be taxed at ordinary income rates.
How long do you plan to stay?
If you plan to trade up to a larger home or downsize to a smaller one within five years, it doesn't make sense to put extra money into your mortgage. The real estate market may be shaky for a while longer, and "you don't want to tie up your cash in your home and then not be able to sell," says La Jolla, Calif., financial planner Christopher Van Slyke.
What do you really gain from the interest tax deduction?
Assuming you itemize your deductions, you can find out what you save by multiplying the mortgage interest you paid last year by your tax rate (federal plus state). A couple in the 28% tax bracket, with a $200,000 loan at 5%, for example, will save $2,781 in taxes the first year of a loan.
'Substantial risk' of 25% drop in housing
Your tax savings decline the further you get into the loan, as more money is applied toward principal.
For many retirees and near-retirees close to the end of the mortgage, the interest deduction is not a reason to avoid paying off the loan, especially since retirees often end up in a lower tax bracket, says planner Peter Canniff of Nashua, N.H.
How would you otherwise invest the money?
Put your money into stocks and bonds and you're likely to get a higher return over the long run than you would paying off your home loan, given today's low rates.
If you itemize, you can calculate your effective return by multiplying your mortgage rate and your tax rate, then subtracting the answer from your mortgage rate (you can do this with the mortgage tax-deduction calculator at bankrate.com/calculators.aspx).
So for someone in the 28% tax bracket with a 5% mortgage, the effective rate of return on paying off the mortgage is 3.6%. By comparison, a 50/50 stock/bond portfolio has historically earned 8.2% long term, though it's sensible to expect future returns to be a more modest 6%.
Still, if you're very skittish about the market or are a retiree keeping a big chunk of money in low-earning CDs, you might do better by losing the loan, given that the average five-year CD is paying just 1.6%.
"For retirees, it's hard to beat the guaranteed return," says Anthony Webb, an economist at Boston College's Center for Retirement Research.
Will being debt-free help you sleep better?
In that case, you might be willing to forgo the extra return you could earn in the market. "Less stress, less worry," says Orlando-area planner Brian Fricke. "Sometimes that matters more than the math."
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